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Grinder Happy
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55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm very slowly changing my sv650. i hope someone with sv experience can answer them..

I have a sport model, it has crash bungs which have been added into the fairings by the PO.
It looks like the mounts for these crash bungs share the bolts that mount the engine, is this likely, and will i need new (shorter) engine mounting bolts if i take them off?

Secondly, this is Scotland , how weatherproof is that fan, really? it looks really exposed when the fairing is off..

Thirdly is there a way that i can use the existing clocks, like a casing or something that I can put them in?

Finally, that top yoke is sturdy enough to drill through to mount bar risers on, right?

Thanks for your patience.
 

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Active Member
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688 Posts
Regarding the fan, it's used on both faired and non-faired bikes.

It sounds to me, for the most part, you're looking to do an S - N conversion. Your best bet is to find a set of yokes off a naked model. This will get you the bar risers and clock mount you're looking for.
 

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Grinder Happy
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55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
at the moment i'm just looking to put higher and wider bars on. I cant afford anything else for a while...
 

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Bitches love Fighters
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5,325 Posts
id say leave the crash bungs on. you never know what will happen. even if it gets tipped over in a driveway or something it lessens your chance of paint damage even
 

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30,373 Posts
The crash bungs use a longer thru engine bolt, at least mine do. Some crash bungs are designed to be used in different parts of the frame though.

The fan will be fine.

You will likely have to fabricate something to keep rain off the back of the gauges. I am not sure if the naked model gauge rear case fits the sport model.

You can drill the top clamp and add risers. You may need a longer clutch line, and brake cables depending on how high and wide you go. You may be able to reroute the throttle cables to gain a little length.
 

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watches you sleep.
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9,116 Posts
You're gonna NEED longer cables. If not you'll have to be super clever with the way you route them and even still it wont quite be long enough. Also if it were me I would make a template of the underside of your top yoke and make 4mm or so plates to reinforce where the holes are going. It's cast aluminum and can definitely crack under the right load and thats one of the worst fuckin spots to have something give out on you while you're riding as Im sure you can imagine.
 

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watches you sleep.
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9,116 Posts
I wanna say I remember reading thats you somehow get a tiny bit more room with the 2nd gens as far as being able to reuse cables but still youd be better off getting slightly longer cables from a first gen N model or something like that. I also heard motion pros are the shit. Oh and you really dont need the return cable. I havent run that push cable on any of my bikes in a while and I've had zero issues. Itll save you some money doing the swap to just have to buy the pull cable.
 

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Fooking old git
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2,216 Posts
as JJ you MUST brace the top yoke.
Do some looking there are plenty of threads on the subject.
 
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