Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Totallynew
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been searching, and can't figure out how to search for an answer to this question...


So when I'm riding, if I only twist the throttle about 1/4 to 1/3, the bike will accelerate fine. But if I twist the throttle like 1/2, 3/4 or wide open, the RPMs rise quickly, but no power is produced. It's like as if I grab the clutch in and rev it.

This will usually happen at freeway speeds, sometimes anywhere past first gear. Usually in the 7k-8k RPM range.

I recently replaced my clutch, castrol oil, and clutch cable. I have played with the cable a lot, and haven't had much of a result. Is this the result of the clutch cable just not being adjusted properly??? Because it's getting to the point where I can't loosen the tension any further.


This is for a 2008 zzr600
 

·
The Hell You Say!!
Joined
·
2,956 Posts
Sounds like your clutch isn't grabbing. Did you make sure that the oil you used is rated for wet clutches?? Did you soak the clutch fibers in oil before you installed it?
 

·
Totallynew
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Soaked the fibers for like 40 mins, and the oil I used is the same oil I've always used, which should be for wet clutches
 

·
Totallynew
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Replaced the springs with the plates, they were a little more stiff than what I had already
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
740 Posts
Did you use OEM frictions, or aftermarket? I have heard of this problem with the el cheapo ebay clutch kits, the friction plates are a little thinner than stock, so the "stack height" isn't high enough to press on the springs enough.

Even OEM frictions typically come in a couple different thicknesses in order to accomodate for wear in the steels, so you can get the stack height within the spec.

Should be 1-2mm of slack between the lever and perch before you start to feel resistance. More slack does not help anything.

Riding it with the clutch slipping like that will rapidly wear the frictions and possibly overheat/warp the steels. I'd pull it apart and measure the stack height and compare it against the service manual. It doesn't take much outside of the spec range (and even sometimes the shorter end of the spec) for the clutch to not hold well. Shoot for the upper end. Measure one of the frictions you installed and ask the dealer what sizes the OEM ones come in- probably get away swapping one or two frictions for slightly thicker ones to get the height right and the clutch holding again.
 

·
Totallynew
Joined
·
56 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you use OEM frictions, or aftermarket? I have heard of this problem with the el cheapo ebay clutch kits, the friction plates are a little thinner than stock, so the "stack height" isn't high enough to press on the springs enough.

Even OEM frictions typically come in a couple different thicknesses in order to accomodate for wear in the steels, so you can get the stack height within the spec.

Should be 1-2mm of slack between the lever and perch before you start to feel resistance. More slack does not help anything.

Riding it with the clutch slipping like that will rapidly wear the frictions and possibly overheat/warp the steels. I'd pull it apart and measure the stack height and compare it against the service manual. It doesn't take much outside of the spec range (and even sometimes the shorter end of the spec) for the clutch to not hold well. Shoot for the upper end. Measure one of the frictions you installed and ask the dealer what sizes the OEM ones come in- probably get away swapping one or two frictions for slightly thicker ones to get the height right and the clutch holding again.


Hmm, well I got mine from ebay, but only because it was cheaper than another site that was selling the kit. But I didn't think it'd be much of a problem.


I'll have to go and measure now.. This all makes pretty good sense
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top