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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all

I am in the process of building a Thunderace streetfighter , initially using bits from a Speed Triple i am breaking for parts.

How the bike started....



My plan is to use the Thunderace clocks mounted in the SPeed Triple pixie hat fairing and the lights. I thought the easiest way to do this was to use the SPeed Triple front subframe and attach that to the mounting for the Ace front sub-frame, but that didn't work out. Instead I mounted the pixie hat frame and lights to the existing ACe sub frame. Not ideal but it will do for the momnent...







I am also going to use the bars from the Speed Triple but need to sort extended brake and speedo lines. For the moment the bike is rideable with clip-ons.

I will also need to find a way of bringing the front subframe higher up as the clocks are a bit low and it will be even worse with higher bars. I also need to sort out a better way of mounting the lights as it is a bit Heath Robinson at the mo...



I also need to find a way of routing this lot of wiring inside the frame...



I am also thinking of using the Speed Triple subframe and rear plastcs but as the Ace subframe is welded on, I will need to give that serious though as once I cut it off there is no going back...

Anyway, that is where I am so far. If anyone has any suggestions or ideas then fire away...

Taz
 

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Another Ace fighter! whoot!

Yea i still haven't chopped my sub yet because i was too keen to ride it lol. plus the old lady would kill me if i bobbed it. You've got two options as i'm sure you've already concluded, find an ally one and weld that in place or grind down the mounting spots to tabs the frame is nice and chunky so there is tons of metal to make use of there and use them as tabs to bolt a sub onto. This way you can choose almost and sub and it don't have to be ally.

What you doing about the radiator? that was this biggest bug for me, the ace rad is so fugly it had to go. I think the FZR750 rads will bolt on and they're nice and compact. With the fairings all off that engine runs MUCH cooler so you don't have to use such an enormous rad like the standard one. This was another thing i was worried about when i fightered mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
With the rear, I don't want to make it ti small is the Ace is a big bike. I want something smaller, but not too small, hence the Speed Triple tail idea. I have heard the theory of how difficult it is, and when I have the major stuff out of the way, I will look into it.

With the rad, yes it is big and butt ugly and it will go at some point. I need to replace the rad anyway and it developed a leak in the rad which i sealed with rad-weld type stuff, but it has never been the same since. I have been thinking about the FZR 750 or thou' rad, but again, I want to get things like wiring, front sub frame etc sorted first.
 

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a new subframe can make all the difference, but its always been something im very reluctant to consider when the original is welded on, i do think the triple tail would look good
Ive always put alarm wire in the top yoke with a little bezel thing
 

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Fooking old git
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Hi, I found the wiring to be a real pig, so I went on to Ebay and found another loom that I hacked up and lost miles of wires, it made them much easier to hide, try googling Hel brake lines, P&H in Wales. Or there are some good suppliers on Ebay. While your there look for risers, there are some that go over the top of the forks so you don,t have to drill the top yolk. Just out of interest why the Triumph look?
Good luck.
 

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Legit goon
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I'd say the wiring looks real fine, lad! You should see mine :doh:
 

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sweet another ace fighter , im in the process of building myn to a fighter with a r1 tail unit , and yes i gound of my rear sub frame , il post pics when i get time to do them .
 

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Fresh Fish
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Way to dive on in. :rock:

If you are not going shorten the harness I would assume you are going to throw some type of insulation back around the wires. Especially in those hot areas and "rub" areas will save from getting a whole new harness or getting stranded.

Keep DWing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
have already drilled the yoke as I did try the Speed Triple bars to see if i could find a way to make cables and hoses fit with a bit of jiggery pokery. I had the idea of using the Speed Triple brake hoses but they weren't quite long enough. I was also going to try using the throttle cable which was the right length, but the wire cables that come out of the sheath at the carb end weren't long enough (if you see what i mean).

Having said that, when I put the risers on again, I am going to use the locating holes to stop the clipons from rotating to mount the risers instead as they are a bit further back on the yoke and so shouldn't interfer with adjusting the front suspension at the top of the forks.

I am doing this conversion on an extremely tight budget and can't justify spending money on a top yoke conversion kit.

THanks for the suggestion though :)
 

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Fooking old git
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have already drilled the yoke as I did try the Speed Triple bars to see if i could find a way to make cables and hoses fit with a bit of jiggery pokery. I had the idea of using the Speed Triple brake hoses but they weren't quite long enough. I was also going to try using the throttle cable which was the right length, but the wire cables that come out of the sheath at the carb end weren't long enough (if you see what i mean).

Having said that, when I put the risers on again, I am going to use the locating holes to stop the clipons from rotating to mount the risers instead as they are a bit further back on the yoke and so shouldn't interfer with adjusting the front suspension at the top of the forks.

I am doing this conversion on an extremely tight budget and can't justify spending money on a top yoke conversion kit.

THanks for the suggestion though :)
Yep. I know that problem. I have got lots of second hand stuff of Ebay so I can keep the original for pos resale, a lot was damaged but I was cutting it down anyway, I:E £10 for a tank(dented) £8 for a rear subframe, (bent) £20 for a top yolk(expensive for me) so I could cut the steering lock hole of and drill it.
Got to say it, brake lines, have to be good, its your life, not worth trying to save money there.
There are lots of bike breakers on Ebay, some will try to match your specs, it seems that some cables will only fit certain bikes.
If your carefull you should be able to do this on your budget, mine cost about £500 over the last 18 months, but I have painted it twice, changed my mind on brake lever colours, and got some bling anodised bolt. Also a remote control Ign switch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hi guys

A bit more progress...

CLip ons are gone and straight bars back on (again!!!). Used the clip-on locating holes on the yoke to fit risers and re-routed throttle cable between the tank and the top of the frame.




For the front brake line I have used the rear brake line of the triple I am braking. As you can see from the pic, this brake line is now too long, but it works.



I have gone back to using the Speed Triple light and instrument mount on the Ace and am working on mounting the Triple nose fairing and Ace clocks on the subframe plate.
 

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Bitches love Fighters
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damn thats a long brake line. lookin good though
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I think for the moment to reduce the amount of slack brake line, I will run it to the caliper on the other side of the bike and then use a crossover line to connect that caliper to the one on the master cylinder side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Have now got the instruments and lights fitted properly and re-routed the front brake line so it doesn't look quite as ridiculous as it did before.





I am going down the route of getting some brake lines from and XJR or FJR but will need to make double sure they are the right length. Might nose around on some XJR/FJR specific forums for the info.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Electrical help needed....

Had all of the wiring sorted out under the airbox and all was in order... When i turned the ignition on the headlights and brake light which worked before now don't.

THe indicators are OK and the brake light works when front or back brake used. Also, if I use the switch to flash the headlights they work!!!

Before I start ripping the wiring apart again, has anyone got any ideas?
 
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