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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's up guys? I'm somewhat forced to buy a welder for my project. It's gotta use a 120v outlet and preferable gas less/flux-core. Iv been looking at light duty Hobart and Lincoln welders. All of them say around 35-80 amp outputs but I'm wondering if that's strong enough to get through bike frames and subframes but gentle enough to do some sheet metal. Any guidance would be awesome.


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I bang metal
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doing thin walled tubing and sheet metal is no fun with flux core
 

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I just went through this but I wanted something stronger than my 65 or 80amp (I can't remember what it is)stick welder and got a Chicago 180amp. so far I welded a subframe and just welded some support brackets onto my buddy's sportster frame and it's worked great. Wire feed is so much better than stick. I don't know shit about welding or welders except what I've learned over the past 6-8 months or so. I was getting better at welding with the stick welder but even after 6 months of doing idk if I would trust my welds. The subframe I welded with my new mig I jumped on it and jumped on it again and again with nothing . No breaks no cracks. If I were you I'd look for a 135amp or 140amp mig so you're still 120v but have more power and get better welds. Like I said Idk shit except for what I've done and lower amp didn't do it for me.

Check out my thread I started last week
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77226
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just went through this but I wanted something stronger than my 65 or 80amp (I can't remember what it is)stick welder and got a Chicago 180amp. so far I welded a subframe and just welded some support brackets onto my buddy's sportster frame and it's worked great. Wire feed is so much better than stick. I don't know shit about welding or welders except what I've learned over the past 6-8 months or so. I was getting better at welding with the stick welder but even after 6 months of doing idk if I would trust my welds. The subframe I welded with my new mig I jumped on it and jumped on it again and again with nothing . No breaks no cracks. If I were you I'd look for a 135amp or 140amp mig so you're still 120v but have more power and get better welds. Like I said Idk shit except for what I've done and lower amp didn't do it for me.

Check out my thread I started last week
http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77226
Very helpful. Thanks guys


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Bitches love Fighters
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look at the eastwood 135 amp mig/flux. its 319 with free shipping right now. comes with everything you need to get up and going except gloves and a mask. its built to take flux core or gas so you can upgrade to gas in the future. comes with regulator and lines
 
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Lincoln SP-125+ here. I've been using it regularly (heavy hobby use, not commercial) for many years and it has been dead reliable. I would easily recommend it. It has enough poop to get through most of the things you want to do. If you anticipate welding thicker than about 1/4" stock you may want to go with a bigger welder. I routinely weld 3/8" flanges to 14ga exhaust tubing without a problem, but if both pieces are that heavy, it may not have the horsepower to keep up.

The above suggestion to go with 135-140 amp is valid. 125 is just enough in my case. More is better.

The local Airgas rep (who handles both Lincoln and Miller) prefers to sell Miller. He says that they seem about equal in quality, but that Miller's after-sales support for parts and service is far better than Lincoln's. So there's one uninformed layman's regurgitation of one retailer's (read: salesman's) opinion. I have no reason to believe he is not being honest but of course the usual disclaimers apply.

If you can, get a small bottle of appropriate gas and use regular wire rather than fluxcore. Fluxcore burns hotter (can weld thicker material for a given voltage setting) but is difficult to control and easily burns through thinner material. Using gas will give you much, much better control and will produce cleaner welds.

You may want to check this link for, uh, welding tips and tricks:
http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/

Good luck. Once you get some practice in you'll have a lot of fun.
 

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Stick is just as strong if not stronger than wire feed. If you pay attention to the rod numbers (6010, 7018, 6013 etc) the first two indicate the tensile strength of a weld (single bead? not sure on the specifics) divided by 1K. So basically the 7018 rod has a tensile rating of 70,000 pounds. If anyone would care to elaborate/correct that please do. Most of my training is in pipe welding with stick and TIG, although I do have some structural certs under my belt with stick, TIG, MIG, and dual shield flux core (SMAW, GTAW, GMAW, and FCAW respectively if you care to use the jargon).

Standard flux core welding can be done well but does require a lot of cleanup afterwards and I don't recommend it for welding near anything you don't want to cover in leather before hand or else you will end up with spatter all over it.

TLDR; I'm a multi-certed welder who still has a long way to go career-wise. I recommend manning up and learning to TIG and get a good setup for both, as the two processes will cover just about anything you want to do with a bike and beyond.

And no, your 30 amp 220 clothes dryer plug isn't going to cut it. Use a 50 amp breaker on a 220v circuit with wire to handle that amperage so you don't melt that shit and burn your garage/house down.

Most 110 machines are a waste of time/too big a compromise IMHO.
 

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sickboy
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Personally, if your just welding bike stuff, just grab a small lincoln weld pak welder off of cl, can get them for $350 or less all day on craigslist. Will do most steel bike welding like frame mods, subframes etc etc.
If you plan on building exhausts from stainless/Ti, then buy a tig, a miller maxstar 150/200 will do you just fine to start.
If you want the ability to weld aluminum and stuff too then look into a miller diversion Tig, descent starter machine for Ac/Dc
 

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I want a tig setup so bad it would be saving me alot of hassle right now.
 
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