[eccles291]

Right, I could really do with some help & advice please guys, if you'd be so kind. I'm fightering the wife's K3 Gixer 6 (my first SF project) and have bought a 2nd hand OE top yoke to drill and fit risers for some fat dirty bars. I've gone for this route rather than a CNC billet top yoke due to costs.

I was a little concerned about possible issues of drilling through the yoke without adding any strengthening so I wanted to beef it up and spread the load out underneath, possibly with JB Weld/ally/steel & then steel washers under the nuts. Speaking to guys on another forum, they reckon filling the recess underneath the top yoke with JB Weld is a bad idea. An alternative suggestion has been to fill it with ally weld, although there are still some people saying that's not a good idea either. (I'm no welder and have no welding kit so would need to speak to an engineering shop to get this done for me.) I was wondering if a piece of ally or steel, shaped to fit the recess would be a strong enough, or better, alternative to either JB Weld or ally weld.

Obviously I don't want to run the risk of doing a bodge job and having the mountings fail but neither do I want to spend more money than is necessary on ridiculous over-engineering if it's not required.

What should I do? What's the best way forward? Thanks fellas.

 

[5400]

A pic is worth a thousand words--maybe you can post a couple and give some more details on the size holes etc?

I vote no to the JB weld. Depending on how much material you are removing, and the skillset of the welder...I vote add filler metal...the cost of a good welding job though, you might be better off going with the aftermarket billet.

 

[shinyribs]

I've seen several builds here where guys have epoxied the voids on the underneath of a top clamp to allow the fasteners a solid place to be. Works good. You ain't gonna break it.

That much welding would warp the piss out of a top clamp. It could be done, but the cooling cycles would take forever. Likely days.

 

[eccles291]

Thanks guys. Photo's as requested.

Top:

Underside: (You can see the recess I'm talking about).

I'm intending to keep the ignition in it's normal place and put some risers on something like these:

 

[jed.only]

what i did was make cardboard templates of the space on the underneath, then cut out 1/8" steel in that shape and drill the holes for the risers. double them up, then a thin layer of epoxy, lay the steel in the triple, and fill in the sides with a layer on top. let me see if i can find a pic.

 

[DimestaK]

Yeah, i wouldn't fill all that up with weld. You'll destroy that piece.

 

[Hillsy]

Cut out a couple of alloy plates to sit in the recesses areas and JB weld / epoxy them in.

Then use as large a washer as possible under the riser nut to spread the load.

It'll be fine.

 

[DrJellyFingers]

my stock triple is drilled and i just flipped my bike for the second time today, no problems

 

[eccles291]

Excellent stuff, thanks fellas! :clown: I am convinced (& reassured) about how to do this now. :cfrocks:


There's an engineering/welding shop a couple of units down from where I work so I'll drop in there to see if they've got any scraps in the bin I could liberate for a small bribe.

 

[fieldarcher]

I filled the void with metal filler and used 3/16 bar I had kicking around, cut to size

 

[eccles291]

Thanks for the photo's fieldarcher.