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Angry Northerner
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324 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right, I could really do with some help & advice please guys, if you'd be so kind. :) I'm fightering the wife's K3 Gixer 6 (my first SF project) and have bought a 2nd hand OE top yoke to drill and fit risers for some fat dirty bars. I've gone for this route rather than a CNC billet top yoke due to costs.

I was a little concerned about possible issues of drilling through the yoke without adding any strengthening so I wanted to beef it up and spread the load out underneath, possibly with JB Weld/ally/steel & then steel washers under the nuts. Speaking to guys on another forum, they reckon filling the recess underneath the top yoke with JB Weld is a bad idea. An alternative suggestion has been to fill it with ally weld, although there are still some people saying that's not a good idea either. (I'm no welder and have no welding kit so would need to speak to an engineering shop to get this done for me.) I was wondering if a piece of ally or steel, shaped to fit the recess would be a strong enough, or better, alternative to either JB Weld or ally weld.

Obviously I don't want to run the risk of doing a bodge job and having the mountings fail but neither do I want to spend more money than is necessary on ridiculous over-engineering if it's not required.

What should I do? What's the best way forward? Thanks fellas.
 

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CB350Cafe first build
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393 Posts
A pic is worth a thousand words--maybe you can post a couple and give some more details on the size holes etc?

I vote no to the JB weld. Depending on how much material you are removing, and the skillset of the welder...I vote add filler metal...the cost of a good welding job though, you might be better off going with the aftermarket billet.
 

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Is my bike ok?
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15,025 Posts
I've seen several builds here where guys have epoxied the voids on the underneath of a top clamp to allow the fasteners a solid place to be. Works good. You ain't gonna break it.

That much welding would warp the piss out of a top clamp. It could be done, but the cooling cycles would take forever. Likely days.
 

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escape from prison planet
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2,296 Posts
what i did was make cardboard templates of the space on the underneath, then cut out 1/8" steel in that shape and drill the holes for the risers. double them up, then a thin layer of epoxy, lay the steel in the triple, and fill in the sides with a layer on top. let me see if i can find a pic.
 

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Senior Member
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890 Posts
Cut out a couple of alloy plates to sit in the recesses areas and JB weld / epoxy them in.

Then use as large a washer as possible under the riser nut to spread the load.

It'll be fine.
 

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Angry Northerner
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324 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Excellent stuff, thanks fellas! :clown: I am convinced (& reassured) about how to do this now. :cfrocks:


There's an engineering/welding shop a couple of units down from where I work so I'll drop in there to see if they've got any scraps in the bin I could liberate for a small bribe. :D
 

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Fooking old git
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2,216 Posts


I filled the void with metal filler and used 3/16 bar I had kicking around, cut to size
 
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