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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been tossing the idea around, & I am curious. I know jack-shit about turbos...would these specs work for my GSX750-f?


Intel 1.75"
Outlet 1.5"
Bearing Wet Floating Bearings
Wastegate 13Psi
Compressor .35 A/R Compressor
Compressor Wheel Exducer: 49mm
Inducer:36.4mm
Turbine Wheel Exducer: 34.95mm
Inducer:41.35mm

I realize it's MORE than just a bolt-on mod, but before I jump into this, I wanted to check with y'all...Thanks in advance!!!
 

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Just Pissing in the wind.
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122 Posts
you know my thoughts on this sir.........would be gnarly tho
 

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Just Pissing in the wind.
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if your gonna do a turbo id do one with an external wastegate. the sound of an open wastegate makes clothes fall off.
 
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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

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UnicycleMode
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That turbo is probably trash, not as much in the sense of your application but in terms of quality. Investing in an actual GT15 or 25 turbo will be the way to go, even if you buy one used and have it rebuilt with new bearings it will be far more worth it in the long run.

Considering you are looking at a turbo that costs under $200 brand new I am pretty sure you might not have all the info you need to even begin to imagine how much turbocharging an engine will cost you in terms of time and effort, let alone the financial cost and associated risk of it all.




Here is a good idea of what a genuine turbocharger from the original manufacturer will run you:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/T28R-TURBOC...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2576f9e6c4&vxp=mtr


I'm afraid that is about average for a quality unit. Then you need a fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, a plenum/pitot combo that functions properly, rebuild the carbs to associate intake charge pipe pressure with float bowl pressure in an equal value so as to keep your carbs from becoming starved of fuel. Then you need to feed oil to and return from the engine without restriction on the drain line, the charge pipe and exhaust needs to be packaged in such a way the turbo clears the front wheel when the suspension is fully compressed too. The list goes on and on.

Doesn't look like much until you start installing it piece by piece or buying it that way as well.

 

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Just Pissing in the wind.
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just go all out with a AGP Zeta 3.2 it wont ever spool but it will look pretty.
 

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King Ding-A-Ling
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·

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UnicycleMode
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Gotcha! Thanks Rat! I thought (according to the description anyway) that WAS a GT15...hmmm...


No problem. The thing about the cheap turbo's is that they are made with questionable tolerances and parts. A cracked turbo housing would suck and you would be out a couple hundred dollars and have to either roll the dice with another cheap turbo or find the original equipment unit that the cheap one is a replica of, and run that. Worst case you would end up with compressor wheel contact to the housing and send debris into your engine risking the whole machine at tremendous speeds.


My turbo Bandit is running a genuine brand name turbo on it for a good reason. If you are really serious about turbocharging your bike look into EFI and used brand name turbo's based on compressor maps rather than just the A/R. If you are lost at this point it's time to start doing some reading on basic turbocharging principal and educate yourself as much as possible before putting a bike under the knife for a forced induction build. ;)



*EDIT*


Turbochargers get VERY hot and spin VERY fast, you wouldn't rebuild your engine with pistons from china that are listed as "just like original" only for the fact they are 1/8th the price would you? Why risk an engine with an equally shoddy and risky part if you are truly serious about performance figures from your machine. :)
 

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Just Pissing in the wind.
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122 Posts
No problem. The thing about the cheap turbo's is that they are made with questionable tolerances and parts. A cracked turbo housing would suck and you would be out a couple hundred dollars and have to either roll the dice with another cheap turbo or find the original equipment unit that the cheap one is a replica of, and run that. Worst case you would end up with compressor wheel contact to the housing and send debris into your engine risking the whole machine at tremendous speeds.


My turbo Bandit is running a genuine brand name turbo on it for a good reason. If you are really serious about turbocharging your bike look into EFI and used brand name turbo's based on compressor maps rather than just the A/R. If you are lost at this point it's time to start doing some reading on basic turbocharging principal and educate yourself as much as possible before putting a bike under the knife for a forced induction build. ;)



*EDIT*


Turbochargers get VERY hot and spin VERY fast, you wouldn't rebuild your engine with pistons from china that are listed as "just like original" only for the fact they are 1/8th the price would you? Why risk an engine with an equally shoddy and risky part if you are truly serious about performance figures from your machine. :)
Totally agree with you sir, however I ran a emusa (egay) turbo for about 6 months on a s13 beating the shit out if it every weekend. But I had it balanced before I installed it there hit or miss


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Remi's Dad
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http://www.unclebobsturbos.com/newbie.html
http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606
read up if you are/aren't familiar. I've never met a genious turbo guy that wasn't a slight bit cocky, BUT they always know what they don't know... if that makes sense.

Have a spare engine and rebuild parts on hand, carb kits, jet kit, vacuum hoses, a wideband is a MUST for tuning safely with. VERY high maintenance.

A turbo should be chosen by your HP goal

I could type until my fingers are raw. Just get the books and dive in elbow deep. You can always ask questions and use trial and error.

Should be worth it :yutugh:
 

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Just Pissing in the wind.
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http://www.unclebobsturbos.com/newbie.html
http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606
read up if you are/aren't familiar. I've never met a genious turbo guy that wasn't a slight bit cocky, BUT they always know what they don't know... if that makes sense.

Have a spare engine and rebuild parts on hand, carb kits, jet kit, vacuum hoses, a wideband is a MUST for tuning safely with. VERY high maintenance.

A turbo should be chosen by your HP goal

I could type until my fingers are raw. Just get the books and dive in elbow deep. You can always ask questions and use trial and error.

Should be worth it :yutugh:
Spoken well good sir, rep


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#114 CVMA/STTARS
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Been tossing the idea around, & I am curious. I know jack-shit about turbos...would these specs work for my GSX750-f?


Intel 1.75"
Outlet 1.5"
Bearing Wet Floating Bearings
Wastegate 13Psi
Compressor .35 A/R Compressor
Compressor Wheel Exducer: 49mm
Inducer:36.4mm
Turbine Wheel Exducer: 34.95mm
Inducer:41.35mm

I realize it's MORE than just a bolt-on mod, but before I jump into this, I wanted to check with y'all...Thanks in advance!!!

Skip the turbo idea. You'll end up dropping $5,000 to do it properly to gain maybe 4-5psi of pressure. For half that you could pull the motor and overbore the engine then have a mechanic install race cams and get everything tuned for the increase in performance. You'll get more bang for your buck and will have a reliable engine that will last a long time.


The turbo fad is great in theory but such a pain in the ass to do right for very little boost on a motorcycle. It's completely unnecessary and adds a lot of weight and extra shit to break on your bike.
 

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Remi's Dad
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at any time he could have a slightly less reliable than stock 1100 with a moderate turbo and moderate boost. (8-12 psi) and come in less than $5k. (if he does it all himself)

Building motors go hand in hand with breaking stuff. Anytime you open an engine and modify the internals the reliability goes down and the maintenance goes up. That's the name of the game
 

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The turbo you posted is to small for a 750. Your would need a min .50 ar hotside to be a street drivin machine. The quality of the ebay turbo's for under $200 are not as bad as everyone thinks. Do some research on them most come with a warranty.

$5k cost is outrageous estimate. A 8psi goal the stock clutch, stock carbs and top end will be fine for a daily well mannered driver. Anything over 10psi will require lots of time and tuning thats when the money pit opens up.

For every pound of boost an avg gain of 10hp is achieved. At 8psi with good tunning will gain 50hp to the wheel with the account of drivetrain loss. That being said with my estimate of $1200-$1500 will you ever obtain 50hp on a non aspirated motor with those dollar signs????
 

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UnicycleMode
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The turbo you posted is to small for a 750. Your would need a min .50 ar hotside to be a street drivin machine. The quality of the ebay turbo's for under $200 are not as bad as everyone thinks. Do some research on them most come with a warranty.

$5k cost is outrageous estimate. A 8psi goal the stock clutch, stock carbs and top end will be fine for a daily well mannered driver. Anything over 10psi will require lots of time and tuning thats when the money pit opens up.

For every pound of boost an avg gain of 10hp is achieved. At 8psi with good tunning will gain 50hp to the wheel with the account of drivetrain loss. That being said with my estimate of $1200-$1500 will you ever obtain 50hp on a non aspirated motor with those dollar signs????




The A/R of the turbo shouldn't matter half as much as the compressor map itself. We could go around and around on what works, what doesn't, how much it costs, etc.. Turbocharging is a subject that garners a bit of discussion around the forum. ;)


Just curious though, have you yourself built a successful turbocharged motorcycle? Not being a dick about it, just wondering. :)
 
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