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"Detonation"
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Pre-warning the photos are shit, I've not documented anything yet so I've only got the photos I've sent to the misses atm, i wasn't going to do a thread as its only basic shit i've done so far but thought fuck it i can at least post up some of the info i have not been able to find online to help others.

So last year i bought a (Built 2001 / Registered 2002) VFR 800 5th Gen from a dealer,
It was being sold as a Low Mileage Mint Condition Bike, only 16,000 miles full service and Test history and it was cleaaaaan.



I've been missing having a fighter for that entire year but i couldn't bring myself to do it to such a clean bike.
Recently I've noticed that the catalytic converter is rusted to fuck so took the fairings off to see if i could cut it out and weld a straight through in.

What i discovered was massive amounts of plastic welding to the inside of the fairings, The loom had been cut up then electrical tape wrapped around it to hold it back together and engine cases scratched under the fairings, this bitch been crashed!!! So the guilt of chopping it up has vanished :rock:

I wanna remove as much weight from the manufacturer specified standard weight of 240Kg / 520lb Wet as i can whilst still keeping it practical for 2 up riding so i'm going to try and document the weight change as i go aswell just for the hell of it.
Weights will take into account weight removed AND weight added from new parts.

I had a few parts in storage (even though i seem to have lost alot of the bits)

So i stuck the headlight i had in storage on (I had lost the surround) and got chopping the wiring down.



Headlight is off a lexmoto ZSX 125, kinda like it for a bit of cheap crap :fu:

So i've ordered in the missing headlight parts and dragged the parts out to do the bars (1" tapered bars) just to find i'm missing the top half of one of the bar risers aswell :doh: back onto ebay.



So after waiting a week for the risers to arrive i finally managed to get the bars fitted, i had read up online before hand about the hoses and throttle cable lengths and the general conception as that there long enough, que the fitting annnnnd the throttle cable just isn't going to make it, not even close.

So a quick jump on the bus down the bike breakers and managed to pick up a Honda ST 1100 throttle cable which does the job (i will look for something a inch or so longer at a later date as i want to slide the forks threw a bit further but it has worked and allowed me to move the forks through a extra inch also to loose some of the fork that the clipons was around)

The clutch hose is also nearing its max so i have ordered a longer stainless one ready to move the fork through aswell.

Standard Clutch Hose is 42inch 1060mm

I've ordered one that is 47.25inch 1200mm from ebay.

So bars are on and bikes rideable again.

I ordered the bar end mirrors forgetting that the 1inch bars are thick walled so the mirrors didn't want to fit, so i had to drill the end of the bars out so i could tap it and bolt into them.



Last night i managed to shorten the switchgear wiring as the bars are now on and today the speedo has turned up, i had a replica KOSO thing but the clear plastic has yellowed so i have bought a cheap speedo for now until i make some replacement glass for the KOSO replica so fitting of that today and moving the headlight unit a little higher.

Total Current Weight Loss: 9.3 Kg/ 20.5 Lbs

  • Further plans include obviously fitting a single front Radiator
  • I gotta work out what i'm gonna do with the Coolant bottle, i'd like to fit it in the tail.
  • I've been offered a free subframe from a gen 1 RSV so i think thats what i'm going to use
  • I wanna try some hydro dipping this time, I've never used it so im thinking something like a dark Graphite Grey Metallic Base color, Something Skull based hydro dip in a slightly lighter grey over the top then i'll cut my own decals in red before clear coating. Then red hoses and lines to finish.
  • no idea what i wanna do for suspension setups yet but i want something longer in the rear, maybe a CBR 600 F4 shock.
  • i would like to do the car wheel swap on the rear
  • i will end up with some sort of radiator shrouds
 

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"Detonation"
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Woops sorry about that they worked fine when I left them there �� cheers for the recommendation.
 

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"Detonation"
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
No probs, you could always convert to a single rad, sure there's one or two on here done it to VFR's
Yer I plan on buying something like a VFR750 one as I think the pump is in the same place so the 750 piping should work aswell, that's the theory anyway.

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V4's FTW
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10,496 Posts
I've used 750 rads a few times, you'll need the 750 left side hose and the rad and fan, make a cross bar to fit in oil cooler mount holes, drop oil cooler down in front of oil filter and check fork lock clearance.
 

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"Detonation"
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've used 750 rads a few times, you'll need the 750 left side hose and the rad and fan, make a cross bar to fit in oil cooler mount holes, drop oil cooler down in front of oil filter and check fork lock clearance.
Cheers SEB, I have actually come across your photos of mounting your radiator a few weeks ago, nice work.

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"Detonation"
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have literaly got almost nothing done in 2 months from a combination of work, bastard toothache, bastard eBay sellers and just not actually being sure what I wanted to do.

As the headlight area is closest to completion I've focused on there a bit, I got the Speedo all mounted up and the surround made and painted (with bed liner, kinda gives a nice OEM plastic look at first glance) to find out I had fucked up at some point and the idiot lights where partially blocked by the surround so have had to shave that down tonight and going to have to repaint it. 🤦

I got the side parts of the headlight painted up in BMW Graphite and decided to give some hydro dipping a try (this shit took two weeks to turn up ) but has come out kinda cool







I had only ordered a small amount so now waiting on a few meters to get the tail done.

I was donated an Aprilia RSV subframe so that's the route I've gone, I managed to fuck that up though, bought the second model tail (without the vents) and the tail light from the model before (with vents)

Have got the right light on order now though, got the tail sprayed up in the Graphite and refurbished the subframe with a degrease and a fresh coat of paint.

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V four honda whore
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12,493 Posts
someone said v4? how did i missed this?
 
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V four honda whore
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12,493 Posts
i deserve it for having shit decissions
 

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"Detonation"
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well, 6 months later and I've still done fuck all really

These damn 7 day weeks at work are killing me

I got rid of the big plastic expansion bottle and made one up.



I went and bought a projector and H1 HID kit and fitted them inside the headlight unit I am using and whilst I had it open fitted some amber L.E.Ds I had laying around.





I've had a few problems with the bike that I had to resolve, ever since I've got the bike the indicators have never really worked properly so I swapped the switch gear out for a CBR 600 F4I one I had laying around.

The bike also cut out a few times whilst riding, but when it was cutting out it would start straight back up.
It wouldn't reprime though when it was doing it so I didn't think it was anything switch based.
I was at a complete loss at what it could be but I had some CBR 1000 stick coils laying around in the shed so decided to start there (plus the standard coils looked horrid bolted to the outside of the frame)



It seems to have fixed my problems.

The speedo I had on originally was magnet read off the front wheel and was unacurate as fuck (I got pulled doing 62mph when the speedo was telling me 45mph)

So bought one that I could wire into the VFR loom and then fine tune to get it accurate.

Ended up costing only £22 but it's spot on and doesn't look tooooo awful.

The FI light is on although only dim, and no fault codes show up so I think I might need to fit a resistor.







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"Detonation"
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I rather like the out come of the hydrodipping I had tried on the front fairing so had a go on a larger piece, the single seat cowl from the RSV tail I'm using. (Picture before clear coat)



Also done the tail.

This week I got around to test fitting the tail.



And more of the hydrodipping



I do need to fit a jack up kit as the tail sits a little lower that the tank, and the saddle sits flat rather than tiled forwards slightly.

I tried to drop the top suspension mount out as I was going to put a longer bolt with a collar on it to jack the rear up but as soon as I undid the top mount I realised the shock bottom hits the cat on the exhaust so can't jack it up that way until I got some decat headers.

The ECU sits nicely where the RSV one would without modifying the loom although I need to make a strap or something to hold it in place.

The R/R wiring was a few inches too short once mounted to the original RSV spot so I had to extend that and also the negative battery wire needed extending.

The saddle is a fucking mess ATM
I've made a base plate and basic shape of the foam but have just stapled the old leather back on for now.

I need to get she subframe side covers before I decide if I want the saddle to wrap around the tank like it currently does or if I want to make the side covers wrap around the tank.

There was no where to bolt up the original brake reservoir, so I fitted one of them HRC pipe ones for now.

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"Detonation"
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I've got the oil cooler set up ready to go



I've also got the VFR 750 Coolant pipes ready to go I've just got to sort myself a radiator out but I wanna buy a brand new one to match the oil cooler.

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"Detonation"
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That hydrodipping looks awesome. How are you doing this and where are you finding the material?
I actually got a huge plastic sheet, put it in the bath, weighted the bottom down, filled the bath with water then tapped the edges around the outside of the bath to stop them falling in, the misses was surprisingly supportive .

The bath won't be deep enough to do the tank so I'll have to rethink it for that.

The company I used for supplies is called "Dip This" in the UK. Appalling customer service but great products.




There's a fair few company's on eBay.


Literally all you need is:
-The Film
-The activator
-Respirator (trust me you need it with the activator)
-Large container of water (don't let the part touch the sides)
-A good clear coat (as it comes out Matt once it's dry, I used ProXL 2K clear, it's a 2 component paint In a can)
-rubber gloves (it sticks to everything)

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BLACK BELT
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7,137 Posts
I like your work! :knucks:

Not clear on "weighted the bottom down".

Doesn't the film completely float on top of the water? Then, you push the part through it, and down into the water?
 

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"Detonation"
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1,034 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I like your work! :knucks:



Not clear on "weighted the bottom down".



Doesn't the film completely float on top of the water? Then, you push the part through it, and down into the water?
The sheet I used to stop the excess material marking my bath, I put a piece of wood on top of to stop it ruffling up and potentially touching the part.

Yes spot on, the film is basically a material similar to dry PVA with the paint design printed on it.

You float the film on the water, let it soak a few seconds and it will turn from a laminate type of material to more like plastic sandwich wrap.

You can then gently blow the air bubbles to the side where they'll come out from under the film.

Then spray the activator on, leave it a few more seconds and the film will then be damn near undetectable and it will just look like the design floating on the water, you then push the part through the film until it's completely submerged, wiggle the part around under the water which breaks up all the excess film on top of the water then remove the part and let it dry.

https://youtu.be/ARVm1V4NMe8

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