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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I've got three diffrent exhausts for my XB now, 2 custom stainless and a stocker, I've built 3 for it but sold one(it was crap) so I figured I'd start posting on my builds for anyone that wants to watch these abominations come to life...

This is my most recent 100% stainless in its infant stage


Then it's all sealed up and blasted


And here it's all mounted up


I'll try to get some more in depth pics of the future builds, I'm already planning my next one
 
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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I had I few issues making the header connections, I kept blowing holes in the thinner elbow(need some Tig practice) and I didn't have a chance to do any buffing on it, but that ok being that I have to open the can again

Reason is I put too many baffles in which is great for the torque and making it run smoother but it robs a lot HP...and that's no good
 

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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just for reference here's my previous stainless

At first I had the exit on the back of the can which gave and odd sound


So I moved it to the side, that gave it a little more torque and it's loud as hell!
 

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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Does anyone know where I can find stainless exhaust pieces?

Like some really short 90s and 45s, say about 1.75dia
 

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Hack in a barn
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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Holy shit! F'dup you weren't bullshitn these mandrel bend guys are only about 30min from me!:)
 
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Those exhausts look great man, i plan on doing a fully custom exhaust some time down the line also. main thing holding me back is money, which i need to buy a tig welder, and practice like crazy.

I'll be watching this thread
 

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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Today was the 3rd run on the new exhaust...I'll tell ya why the 3rd run is a milestone...the XB's have a interactive learning ECM so after an exhaust or intake change has been made it takes a couple days for it to gather the data from the TP, speed, air temp, elev...etc

I've found that it makes the biggest change right around the 3rd run of about 10 miles

So far I'm somewhat happy with my build, the bike runs much smoother and has a decent sound that's not too loud...the previous pipe would rattle windows...what I'm not so happy with is the loss in HP...the XB's have much bigger cams and lighter cranks than the typical Harley so it's basically a balancing act between providing enough back pressure(to maintain torque) and providing flow(for HP and sound)

The way I baffled this one is much like the typical flowmaster with 2 V-baffles facing opposite directions with a flat plat between them to give the pipe strength...well it sounds pretty much identical to a flowmaster at idle with a low rumble at speed

I think where I need to adjust is at the first V needs to be removed...I'm thinking it's to close to the inlet from the header and not allowing the initial flow into the can from the header...

I'm lookin for some input before I chop the can open again, anyone got anything?
 

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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My buddy dropped this off last night for my son, the lil fucker rips with him on it
 

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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So I've decided to leave the current exhaust alone and get started on the next one, the bike just runs too got with it the way it is, and the fuel mileage is way better

I'll get some pics of how these exhausts start life...
 

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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
NEW PIPE! Take a look...

So here's the latest from whips fab shop, think I'm finally getting the hang of this Tig bit, I did some studying on the Miller site and learned ALOT!

Anyway, here's how I'm bringing these abominations to life...

Step 1. Split the 4" stainless pipe


And again..


2. Tack in the center plates to widen the pipe


3. Once the plates are tacked into desired position...Lay waste to the bitch!


4. Admire your work for a minute but don't bathe in your on magnificence too long cuz there's lots more to do:)


Anyway, here's a closer look at the welds..

Am I doing ok?
 

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dang man, that metal looks very thick, what size it?
 

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Is my bike ok?
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"Lay waste to the bitch!" :LolLolLolLol:

Man, I love this. Modifying a part is great, but building parts from scratch is just awesome. :knucks:

Keep on building bro.

And only because you asked, but those beads do look a little dirty. Sanding your metal clean on both sides would help. Using a gas lens setup cleans much better than a typical cup does. What do you have your flow set at? I keep straight argon in my TIG bottle for welding aluminum, but you could run mix on this and be fine.

Biggest things I've found for clean TIG welds:

-Gas lens
-Pure tungstens (not thoriated...they last longer,too)
- Gas flow at 15 cfm min ( flowing, not static)
- Use the post-flow. Don't just end your bead and pull the torch away. Keep your torch at the end of your weld for a few moments to shield the weld in it's last molten moments

and most importantly...
- keep that tungsten clean!!! if you accidentally touch down-stop!-don't try to soldier through with a dirty tungsten. I like to keep a few on hand, already ground and ready to go in.
 

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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
dang man, that metal looks very thick, what size it?

I'm not sure what gauge it is but yeah it's pretty heavy shit, the pipes when finished weigh between 15-20lbs but I've tried lighter stuff and actually ripped a hole hitting Tarmac(the SCG is pretty low) also the exhaust are meant to be a lifting point so I opted for the heavier stuff being I don't put any supports inside the can

"Lay waste to the bitch!" :LolLolLolLol:

Man, I love this. Modifying a part is great, but building parts from scratch is just awesome. :knucks:

Keep on building bro.

And only because you asked, but those beads do look a little dirty. Sanding your metal clean on both sides would help. Using a gas lens setup cleans much better than a typical cup does. What do you have your flow set at? I keep straight argon in my TIG bottle for welding aluminum, but you could run mix on this and be fine.

Biggest things I've found for clean TIG welds:

-Gas lens
-Pure tungstens (not thoriated...they last longer,too)
- Gas flow at 15 cfm min ( flowing, not static)
- Use the post-flow. Don't just end your bead and pull the torch away. Keep your torch at the end of your weld for a few moments to shield the weld in it's last molten moments

and most importantly...
- keep that tungsten clean!!! if you accidentally touch down-stop!-don't try to soldier through with a dirty tungsten. I like to keep a few on hand, already ground and ready to go in.

My mom use to call it "makin a silk purse out of a sows ear"...LOL...I love building something from nothing, I'll spend hours in the shop chopping the hell out of something just to get a part I think I can use:)

Guess I'm gonna have to start buffing up my weld area before I start, it looked clean to me but it sounds like Tigs are picky, think flow meter said 20 or 25 last time I looked, I'm running a 75/25 mix right now but the bottle is almost empty so I might go straight argon will I fill if the price is right

I have a bunch of both green and red tungsten, haven't tried the green yet but after doing some reading I found my temp is a bit high and I was sharpening the rod wrong

I'll try backing off on the gas a bit and cleaning the surface first, I plan on hit er again tomorrow...see if I can clean er up a bit:)...

Thanks for the advice bro!:knucks:
 
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Aaaah ok, as long as you have a method to your madness. I just wouldnt want you adding unneeded weight to it lol
 

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Vtwin
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Muuuuuahahahahaaaaa!!!!! I think I've lost my F'ing mind!!!


Well cats out the shit sack now, as you can see there's my next one, it'll be a sleek low profile 3" with a remove able bottom and changeable baffles for tuning...this is funner than fuckin a $2 whore...lol

Anyway here the ol Buffalo Forge getting ready to bore some holes
 
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lɐʇuǝɯᴉɹǝdx&#4
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Nice! I've been planning an underbody exhaust for the secapoc, but was just gonna patch together some cherry bomb style shorties. Seeing this, I might try doing my own can, though I think I'd stick with plain mild steel.
 
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