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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, im currently reassembling my first bike project, its an '85 454LTD thats getting a fun make over and while waiting on some parts to arrive so ive been cleaning this up alot and considering a full wire tuck. How ever im kinda stummped...

im wondering who has had luck with thinning out the wiring harness on their bike, what circuits you removed and how they went about utilizing the factory harness after so. Im considering removing everything but the bare essentials on this build.
The circuits i need on the bike would be;
head light
run/tail light (brake)
ignition on-off/ign kill/starter
altenator

indicator lights id like to keep would be;
N
"on"
and a warning indicator, either oil or temp

I oviously need to seperate out the circuit for the ele fan too...


Ive thought a universal chopper harness would work but if i can utilize the factory harness i would ya know. Plus after eliminating wires i also plan on doing a full wire tuck. Theres just a few boxes/relays, etc im not sure of...

with my gauges ive thought about simply keeping the factory pair but removing the dash and cleaning up the mess in the headlight housing too, also have been looking into a dual head lamp assembly.

sorry if this is alot in the first post on this new thread, just ideas i have had in my mind this week for my bike.


thanks ahead of time!
 

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I saw a post recently that had a link to connecters for wire harnesses. I plan on doing that with my bike. Cut and remove unneeded wires then swap the big connectors for small ones so there arent unused terminals


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If you strip your harness you should be able to keep the whole start/run/charge & kill parts as stock but shortened or re routed to suit then all you need to deal with is the lights which are dead easy

To be honest if it were me i'd just make up a new harness as its quicker & can be made to suit your needs
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
4cups, ive thought about making the harness but got confused where to place all the relays, circuit breakers and stuff like that, plus my bike has an electric fan mounted to the radiator controled by a switch threaded into the t-stat housing and not 100% sure on how that cicuit is wired
i need to sit down and study this bikes wiring schematic and draw one out to see if it makes sense i guess, im just curious to others input on going about this step, thankyou for replying btw
 
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The stat switch on most bikes is pretty simple IE live to the switch, switched live from the switch to the fan & the fan earthed, you can wire the switched live for the fan either from the ignition switched live so it goes off with the ignition or from a permanant live so it stays on until the bike cools

When making a harness or sorting electrical issues i find it easiest to seperate the running side from everything else & sort that first then treat the various other systems such as lights, fan etc as seperate sub systems
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
hey everyone, been a minute since i had time to mess with the harness...ive made awesome progress this week routing wires one by one thru selected areas of the frame for a full wire tuck, its gonna look sic!

Im going to try n wire up the power distribution block mini fuse panel as well as a gound block.
Quick thoughts here tho...

circuits to have with B+ are;
(i will be researching these today)

igntion/coils amp? fuse rating?
rectifier/regulator amp? fuse rating?
running lights, (head light/tail light only) amp? fuse rating?
ele coolant fan/relay amp? fuse rating?
headlight-hi beam circuit/relay amp? fuse rating?
starter relay-has its own relay/solenoid...

what else am i forgetting here?

thanks for the any insight and help!
 

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My 2010 Kawi has a shitload more electrical stuff than that old bike and it runs through 5 fuses?
Can you just solder 4 or 5 inline blade holder style?
 
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My mrs chop runs everything through 3 of the fuse holders pictured above on a harness i made, no problems so far in over a year of use

I would say dont guess at what amp fuse you need just go with whatever the original bike used for each part that way you know its the fuse that will blow rather than the part which is likely to cost you a heap of money
 
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