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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have these replica Koso RX2n clocks on my bike. This is a generic picture, but it shows which ones I mean. For ref, my bike is a 1993 Honda CBR600F2.





I can find a lot of posts about the RX1, but it is a different gauge, so the advice given doesn't seem relevant. This one is actually called an SS182 but seems identical to the Koso RX2n.

So far I have it wired up so that it does the startup sequence and lights up. The indicator lights, headlamp main beam, neutral light, engine, battery lights etc.... all work fine (except for the fuel one which blinks on and off all the time as I don't have a fuel gauge on my bike so I just covered that one with black tape as it was a bit distracting).

My problem is the RPM which I can't get to work at all (except when the needle moves on start-up sequence). Do I attach something to the coils to get this reading? And is it the + or the - end of the coil? This is just a guess based on what I can find elsewhere about the RX1 gauges, so I may be way off. I have also heard of people wrapping wires around the HT leads, but this seems to be a less accurate way of doing it.

The other problem is the speedo - The magnets are fixed onto the front brake disc and the sensor is set up about 5mm from them. I get a reading, but it is way out and sometimes jumps from one speed to another erratically. I think this is due to the setting for the wheel size - My bike has 17" front wheels but the setting only goes from 1000-2999mm. Does anyone know what figure I should be putting in here?

If anyone has any info on these clocks or has fitted them successfully, could you please point me in the right direction. If the info I need is already out there, can you let me know where as I can't find it. Thanks

The only info I got with the clocks is posted below and not much help:




 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks for your responses :)

I have already tried wiring it to the old RPM wire and nothing happens.

The speed sensor can go a bit closer, but I thought it was meant to be about 5mm away from the magnets?

I will try to measure the wheel as you suggested, I was just curious if anybody else already had that measurement for a 17" tyre as there are a lot of aftermarket clocks out there which require that figure.

Forgot to mention that the odo and the trip work fine - it remembers both after being switched off and on again - but strangely, I can't get the clock to remember the time. That one is a head scratcher as there is obviously some form of power or memory there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have a17" wheel and the tire I have is a 60/120 I believe with a toll out of 1810mm. That may get you closer. Strange the factory tach signal wire didn't work.

Sent from Motorcycle.com App

Thanks - I will try that number and see what happens :)

Yeah, the whole thing is strange - even tried the wires back on the old clocks to make sure they still worked on that, and they did. The only comfort I have is that I know that a lot of people have problems wiring these types of clocks, so the answer may be out there somewhere - I just have to find it LOL
 

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I have these clocks winging their way to me now. I have some experience of wiring after market digital clocks as this is the third gauge I am fitting to my bike. Don't know if I will be able to contribute anything useful to this thread, but we will see when the clocks arrive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for popping in Taz - Any help would be greatly recieved. Overall, I love the clocks and the way they look, just wish I could get them to work properly cos the RPM part is the best looking bit and mine doesn't want to play :confused:

Just wondering why this is the third set of gauges you will have used? What happened to the other two?
 

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The first one was a Koso DB-01R. Problem there was it was a bit too small and to get some of the idiot lights working would have meant messing around with relays.

2nd set was one of the cheaper Chinese gauges but I think I blew that one up by not fitting an inline fuse for the battery connection. The idiot lights on these gauges worked fine but the magnet setup for the speedo was a bit sketchy as it looked like you needed to drill holes in the brake disc to fit them.

I am hoping that with these gauges the magnets fit into the heads of the disc bolts. If this is the case I will bin the supplied magnets and get some bolts which are hexagonal head instead of the button allen head bolts which already have the magnet fitted in them. I would always worry about magnets falling off and that would solve that problem.

On the Koso gauge you had to enter the wheel size which even when I measured it with string the speedo was still out. In the end I used a GPS speedo app on my phone and fine tuned the wheel size setting until it matched the speedo app.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I found the magnets didn't fit in the bolt heads either so I JB welded them just to be sure and that meant the sensor bracket had to be moved back a little as they weren't flush.
 

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I have this gauge and spoke a lot with the manufacturer in China. I was thinking about importing some to sell to you guys. However, they are obviously direct knock-offs from a product that KOSO sells in the USA, so I thought it wouldn't be a good business option!

Unfortunately, this gauge is set up to read the RPM signal from the NEGATIVE 12v signal which comes from the SIGNAL GENERATOR. You can not use a positive 12v signal from the ignition coil. This is the part that sucks ... the gauge is calibrated for a single cylinder engine. That means, in most circumstances, a 4 banger will read 4x higher and a two cylinder will read 2x higher than actual RPM. The signal is presented in Mhz, so you really have no way to modify the output from the signal generator (because it runs the ignition) and no way to change the signal without adding your own circuitry.

As for the wheel, you can measure the length from the front axle to the ground and use that as your radius to calculate the circumference. Don't forget that this gauge has a variable PULSE setting to set for the speedo. If you have two magnets, make sure you set the PULSE to 2.
 

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The 'cylinder number' think is a bit misleading really - it's more about the number of independent coil packs (like my ZZR has four coil packs now as I've converted to sticks, but there are only two 'independent' sides; 1&4 is one signal, 2&3 is another).

My Koso came with two spade crimps joined together with a short length of wire, and a longer length of wire tapped off. This was to fit between the connector and the coil itself.
Difficult to see here but it's the blue/yellow wire n the left
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Wow - I go away for a couple of days and all of a sudden there are lots of replies to my post :)

Thanks to all of you for helping me out with this. My wiring guy has sort of given up on my clocks which has frustrated me as I didn't buy them so they could sit there and not work!
I have read somewhere else that its not the number of cylinders, but the number of coils that you have to put in the clock. When I find that again, I will post it on here for others to see.

I will try to get him interested in finishing my clocks, so then I can report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have this gauge and spoke a lot with the manufacturer in China. I was thinking about importing some to sell to you guys. However, they are obviously direct knock-offs from a product that KOSO sells in the USA, so I thought it wouldn't be a good business option!
I disagree that it wouldn't be a good idea - The clocks are selling rather well from the amount of posts I see about them on the internet. KOSO ones are just too pricey for a lot of people so there is a thriving market for the Chinese knock-off ones. If you were to sell them instead, it would reduce the waiting time for them to arrive in the post, and would be easier to ask for advice on fitting them. I say, go for it - and when you make millions, can I have a 10% cut for persuading you to do it? :LolLolLolLol:
 
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