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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone used anything like this to clean up wiring? I have a mess of wires under my seat that go to my signals, tail and license plate light. I want to clean it up and make it professional. So I thought these with some shrink wrap would help. But I still have these big bulky white resistors I gotta deal with.
Anyways I'd like to see a thread with more tips on how to clean up wiring. Also thinking about re wrapping the big wire cluster that goes to the ECU with something else besides the crusty old black stuff that's on it now.
Any advice would be awesome
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Weatherproof connectors are awesome. They're all I use. I won't wire any item up unless it's disconnectable via a weatherproof connector like shown. Fuck having to cut shit loose and resolder.

And they aren't "resistors" when used properly. A solid mechanical connection is far more trustworthy than any relay.
How do you tie them in to the existing wires, solder and shrink wrap?
 

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Is my bike ok?
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With solder, yes. But it's not completely necessary. You won't need shrink wrap as the wires are sealed when you assemble the connector.

There are metal inserts that come with those connectors that you attach to your wires. I solder mine on, but a lot of people just crimp then on. The inserts are barbed, so once you push then in to the connector they will click in place.

*edit: the ones you have pictured with the pigtails, you'd just solder and shrink wrap to the pigtails there ( the stubs of wire hanging out). You can usually get those much cheaper without the pigtails. Several different pin counts ( how many wires it will accept) and different styles of bodies ( round, square, flat).

Google search "GM weather pack connectors" and get familiar with what is available before you spend coin. You might find certain styles of that connector that will help you save space.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Google search "GM weather pack connectors" and get familiar with what is available before you spend coin. You might find certain styles of that connector that will help you save space.
Thanks a bunch I really like these much better without the pigtails and I can just crimp them right in. There is so much electrical supplies out there.

Do you suggest I get that relay for the LED's so I can disconnect those ceramic coated resistors?
 

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^ you need a special pair of pliers designed spesificly for the job to crimp those pins. Regular abiko-pliers won't do it. But yea I've used those exact same connectors that U got in your first pic.
 

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Well at least in those connectors that I've used an uncrimped connector pin will not fit into the pin well so you will at least have to press the flaps down with some pliers, which leads to the fact that the dedicated pliers only cost like 20eur and make it so much easier it's just plain dumb not to use them besides the water seal plug is supposed to be crimped to the pin using the rearmost flap thingies and I suspect a gas torch just might singe them a lil bit :D

Nothing stops you from soldering the joint even after a crimp, however if made properly it is not needed as the plug is completely watertight. To be absolutely sure smear a tiny dab of battery terminal grease into the seal to help plug the connector in and to make it 100% sealed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
^ you need a special pair of pliers designed spesificly for the job to crimp those pins. Regular abiko-pliers won't do it. But yea I've used those exact same connectors that U got in your first pic.
Ah crap...well hopefully I can do a workaround because I ordered 5 pairs of them...

*EDIT*
Nevermind I went ahead and ordered them they were only $30
 

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Slow down guys. You're gonna end up spending money for nothing.

You don't NEED special pliers. They exist, yes. And they are nice, yes. But you can also install them with any crimping pliers. Your joint at the sealing grommet might not look very pretty, but it will still work.

The sealing grommet will seal and remain in place regardless of how the crimp ends up, so you're not sacrificing anything there. But if you drop a splash of solder on there you know it'll never loosen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Slow down guys. You're gonna end up spending money for nothing.

You don't NEED special pliers. They exist, yes. And they are nice, yes. But you can also install them with any crimping pliers. Your joint at the sealing grommet might not look very pretty, but it will still work.

The sealing grommet will seal and remain in place regardless of how the crimp ends up, do you're not sacrificing anything there. But if you drop a splash of solder on there you know it'll never listen.
Damn....well I ordered them. The only other crimps I have are the cheap ones that came with my wiring kit for school, so they'll be a decent addition to my tool box.
 

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Slow down guys. You're gonna end up spending money for nothing.

You don't NEED special pliers. They exist, yes. And they are nice, yes. But you can also install them with any crimping pliers. Your joint at the sealing grommet might not look very pretty, but it will still work.

The sealing grommet will seal and remain in place regardless of how the crimp ends up, do you're not sacrificing anything there. But if you drop a splash of solder on there you know it'll never listen.
Well you CAN also do a head gasket swap with a leatherman yes, but it'll take a whole helluva lot longer, be a major pissoff and you're gonna end up feeling shit about the ratty job you just did and feel insecure if it's done properly and will it last. Or that's me anyway, if there is a tool for the job and it doesn't bankrupt you to get one I can't really see why not get it. Yes you can also crimp normal abiko connectors with the pressed sheet metal pliers that come with the set but I'll tell you having a pair that'll lock down until a set momentum is achieved it's a whole lot more pleasant and you can be sure to have a decent crimp first time every time.

I'd also want a FLIR camera to find the draft leaks in my house but they cost 700+ so that's a no go... if you catch my drift... NEED as in avoid unnecessary fuckerage and achieve good outcome with half the effort, in my books they pay themselves back in saved time and piece of mind on the first job.
 

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Remi's Dad
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i'm going to agree with shiny. It doesn't have to be called ratty. Crimping can't be compared to replacing head gaskets.

i'm sure it can be "ratty" with a set of special crimpers too. If you don't understand the process the outcome may still be sub-par

Crimping isn't rocket science or incredibly precise.... but what do i know my electrical license is just paper....
 

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UF guess what I got an electrician's degree as well but I fail to see how it affects preferance of using or not using special tools in general... whatever I guess we'll just have to disagree on this one no point in wasting any more server space...
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I've got another question. The wires that lead to the ECU and others throughout the bike, all have this old plastic black wrap around them that had aged and is super crusty and shit looking.
Any suggestions on stuff to use to re wrap that stuff. I was looking at chrome flex tubing to go around it, any thoughts?
 

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Remi's Dad
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the tool only creates ease, not skill. Without skill can you really make a sound repair? That's to say about any craft process. Too many people make excuses about tools when all it really takes is ingenuity and patience.

Never said that the right tools are forbidden, it's just that preaching about special tools seems complacent.

And i'm trying not to be sassy or defiant but merely conveying my view more in depth. As a tradesman you should know there is more than one way to complete a task in some instances.
 
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