Custom Fighters - Custom Streetfighter Motorcycle Forum banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Metal Slime
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2006 Kawasaki Z750S. OK here is what happens. Turn the key and nothing happens but the neutral and oil light come on dimly. Sometimes everything will power up like norm but thumbing the starter will kill all the juice. Battery is fine (12.2). Fuses fine. Junction box is fine. The wire wiggle test is negative.

Sincerely,
Heartbroken fucker who can't ride:bawling:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
3,081 Posts
12.2V is actually low for a 12V DC battery. It should be closer to 12.5-12.6V. Obviously you have a voltmeter so can you try to measure the voltage while trying to start it? See what kind of voltage reading you get that way.

Later, Doug
 
  • Like
Reactions: ROBBO

·
Registered
Joined
·
740 Posts
Your battery is not fine.

12.2 volts standing means it's dead. A fully charged battery will show 12.6. It has barely enough power to turn on the dash, when you engage the starter the voltage zeros almost immediately.

Did you try charging it, or jumping the bike off a car (engine not running)?

Check the voltage across the battery with the engine running at fast idle...should be 14-14.4 if everything is working properly. If that's the case and the battery won't hold a charge- dead after sitting for a while- replace it.
 

·
Metal Slime
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks, comrades. I will check the battery more thoroughly and continue more wire wiggle tests. Fucking electronics.
 

·
Metal Slime
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK. So I jumped it and everything came on and started fine. Can a battery just decide to stop working overnight? It's only a couple years old and everything was cool the day before. Goddam Obama.
 

·
Metal Slime
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Dude. How do you diagnose a charging fault? I got a new battery and everything seems to work OK now.
 

·
The Hell You Say!!
Joined
·
2,956 Posts
A easy test...start your bike, walk around it until you can see the headlight and also reach the throttle...rev your bike...if your headlight gets brighter everything should be ok...then do the same thing while you have a voltmeter on your battery...should see it jump up around 14v as mentioned in a previous post.
 

·
Hack in a barn
Joined
·
4,409 Posts
On my R6 when I check to see if the battery is being charged while the bike is running it has to be at 4k rpm, keep that in mind when checking yours. If at idle it's not showing 14v hold the rpms higher and check then.

And check your grounds, check to make sure it's connection to the battery is good...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
740 Posts
On a z750 just pull the "choke"/ fast idle lever down, it'll make it idle at like 3000rpm

Put a voltmeter across the battery, should have 14+ volts. Easy as that.
 

·
Metal Slime
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks again for the advice, guys! You people are a wealth of fast knowledge. I was getting 14v at high idle but only about 12.2 with the engine off and no cranking. Bought a new battery and everything is back to normal. The ol 750 just hit 43,000 miles and only the third battery of it's life.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
740 Posts
That's really not too bad. My Z1000 is within a weekend ride of 40k. According to the original owner the stock battery shit out during the first off season, replaced it with a Motobatt sealed in 2007, and it's still cranking strong now.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top