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The friendly Ghost.
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I personally don't trust cheap master cylinders, OEM ones can be had for ~$40 if you look for a deal. (You can usually grab the calipers attached if you are looking in the ~$70 range.)

They will probably work, but like using cheap brake pads, these probably aren't designed with consistently spirited riding in mind.
 

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Elbow Grease is Cheap
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6,370 Posts
I personally don't trust cheap master cylinders, OEM ones can be had for ~$40 if you look for a deal. (You can usually grab the calipers attached if you are looking in the ~$70 range.)

They will probably work, but like using cheap brake pads, these probably aren't designed with consistently spirited riding in mind.
YES and YES!

Brakes are one component that you don't want to go with the cheapest option.

They might look good, but the black anodizing will quickly turn into a "wine" color.

The largest issue is lack of quality control. In a critical part such as a master cylinder, QC is paramount.
 

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DO NOT buy cheap master cylinders. Seen them literally just snap apart while bleeding the brake. The tabs that hold the lever pivot are very thin and apparently made of pig iron.

As said there are tons of OE (quality) masters out there, often for less than the "cheap" chinese ones. I got a brembo R1 master a few years ago for $40.

And yes, chinese anodizing is total shit. A set of bright Honda red levers had faded to the color of a used tampon within about 3 months.
 

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UnicycleMode
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Anything chinese that has to do with hydraulic pressure (i.e. fluids of any sort) like brakes, steering stabilizers, etc. are all things I avoid when buying bike bits off ebay. There is a serious lack of quality in the seals and as said, the material. There is good reason those parts are so cheap, it's not just due to the cost to manufacture, it's the cost of the material as well.



Maybe, MAYBE on a pit bike I would sport something like that, but anything going above 25mph should have quality parts without a second guess about it. I even stay away from chinese levers. Haven't had too bad of a time with a set of chinese rotors on my 900RR, but I'm not going to put it past them to last more than 5,000 miles or so before they are all sorts of funny colors and the rivets are falling out of them. If I was to do a track day I would swap on stock (even worn down a bit) rotors to the front end just to be sure I'm not going to have an aluminum center section shatter mid braking point.



Just the mere thought of a rotor failure, or in your case, even a master cylinder failure should send chills down your spine. Fast approaching stopped traffic at a busy intersection with heavy cross traffic with no brakes would be a complete nightmare.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for your help guys I've decided to refurbish the original cylinders and just replace the levers and grips, any suggestions on the levers?
 

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I have heard of chinese levers "fitting" well enough to appear they are correct, but lightly pressing on the piston, just enough to drag the brake, heat it up, and then lock the wheel without warning on the road. They make a few different styles that they advertise fit all sorts of bikes, of course they didn't actually check to see if they fit right.

I have a set of fake roll-n-click levers on my Z, aside from the green coloring fading, they've held up pretty well. They haven't gotten all sloppy, the holes egged out, and the adjusters still work fine (of which I'm somewhat surprised as I've had them for almost 20k miles now) and the ones for my Z did fit correctly. I just couldn't bring myself to drop almost $250 for a set of ASV levers.
 
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