yeah. my cbr has NEVER not started. -30* minnesota winter. first crank starts. so i feel your panic man!
how about you begin to go back through the steps in hooking it back up and see if anything is out of place.
(i know-i know, its kind if a childish answer) so it kills when it gets hot?
my bike kills in the summer when its hot out and im not moving for a while. stop n go & then chillin talking or something. its because the radiator cant keep it cool enough i guess when its not got wind over it i think?
so maybe try checking coolant & fans & any temp related stuff you can think of. or check that you didnt block leave leaks in an airway changing fuel mix? check that the carbs are set the same and no leaks or anything in the intake system? im just throwing out ideas. good luck.

 

Does it misfire,slowly die or abruptly jus stop dead?Whats tha motor temp when it stops runnin?

 

try putting fresh fuel in it.

you may have to go thru the carbs, if they sat for a period of time even off the bike with fuel in them it can coagulate and cause problems in the jets and passages

 

Ok. I have been checking around and have this to input also. I removed all the B/S ram intake stuff from the Honda thinking I didn't need it....Still don't think I do. On the F3's if you don't know they have a California clean air intake system which runs from the front (two little) tubes all the way back and thru some filters????There was a solonoid hookup there also...Some sites say it monitors air/fuel mix...Can't beleive it does that bullshit. Anyways not currently in the bike. And I have heard on this site that the F3 doesn't need that crappy "ram air"....Thoughts?????

 

Well that information is definitely important. At first it sounded like you took it apart and put it back together exactly the same but you actually removed/changed a bunch of stuff. I dont know for sure but i have seen several posts on here about F3 ram air removal and something(going from memory) about a pink wire going to the gauges that needs to be grounded or something.

I think you should lay out everything you did to the bike here. What was removed, how you removed it, how you capped/plugged things on the bike, where you routed vac lines and so on. Asking for help on why its no running wont get you anywhere without knowing all the info. Im sure someone who is an F4 guru will chime in and get you straight.

 

I agree with Shift.

Do you have a service manual? If not, I think you need one.

Check out my Track thread around page 6 or so I run into running problems caused by some hoses I deleted. Not starting issues, but there may be some insight there.

There are two systems I believe on the F3 that have hoses...Direct Air injection and a bypass thing for emissions (PAIR valve/mod) and also the flapper mod. Neither, IMO should affect your starting or idle...I think....

 

Get that info up mate we are bustin ta help .

 

Ok...Guess I should try and be more specific. We took the bike completly apart, painted the engine, removed the ram air tubing stuff...The PAIR valve is gone along with the tubing. The instrument cluster I replaced with a Vapor. The plugs are all new. Did not brake into the carbs at all, no adjusments, nothing. Checked fuel flow tonight and its good. Actually took it out for a minute but it died when I brought it back in. It's been dying slowly and then will not restart unless it sits for and hour or so. I really am trying to be specific, but I am new at the mechanical stuff and a friend who is fairly knowledgable helped. If I need to provide more, please let me know.

 

What did you do with the vac lines coming from your valve cover? How long was the bike taken apart? How far apart did you take the engine or was it just out? When you put the bike back together are you sure all the frame ground points are clean and the wires have good connection to them? Bad grounds can cause all kinds of issues that will make you think its something else.

 

I do have a service manual.

 

Thanks Rich now we may be able ta pinpoint something here .Good man .

 

We ground all the parts that we know of (which might not be saying much) The rectifier is getting really hot. It was on the exterior on the frame, but now its' inside the small tail we built and sits there. Seems the hotter that thing gets, it doesn't allow the bike to start. Anyone an expert on this rectifier part? Do I need a new one? Does it need to be ground? Could there be something jacked in the wiring harness (Which we didn't mess with either) that could be causing this? We did remove the old instrument cluster, turn signals, headlights and I am replacing the cluster with the Vapor one...Any other ideas? Thanks guys.

 

Engine was just out. Didn't brake into it in anyway. It was probably out 3 months or so. We plugged those valves with valve caps.

 

I also replaced old plugs with NGK plugs and they are gapped correctly. I thought he NGK's were better is it possible the bike is older and isn't taking those plugs well? I think I have narrowed it down to an electrical issue somewhere, but all we did was what I said above as far as what was replaced etc. We didnt' really cut anywhere along the harness.

 

Fuel pump is pushing fuel. Bike is getting air. That just leaves spark correct? Spark plugs are fine. I really think its' electrical somewhere. Based on the rectifier getting so damn hot. Is it being placed on the exterior good enough to keep it cool enough to not shut the bike down? Just throwing stuff out there.

 

The rectifiers are usually grounded to the frame. Even though they have a ground wire i dont think ive come across a bike that didnt have them directly mounted to the frame or some sort of metal plate. That would be worth a shot. The reason being is that these charging systems typically dump the extra power to the ground. Right now it doesnt have a path to ground so the result is heat. I can't say if its good or not anymore but i would try grounding it first.

 

Rectifiers need cool! Used ta have bigold fins and be mounted at tha front of tha bike directly intha airflow!also a real good ground is esential fer them ta function corectly

 

I have ordered a rectifier. It is connected into the ignition which, I think is why I am having starting issues. As soon as that comes and I get it put in, I will let you guys know. Thanks for all the ideas.

 

What did you do with the wiring after removing the Cali emissions? Make sure that you follow EACH vacuum line and only cap the ones that don't lead back to the system. Some of the valves just need to be bypassed, not capped. The pink wire is speed sensitive, and will cause the bike to surge at certain speeds, basically it controls the PAIR valve to open at certain speeds and grounding it makes it stay open constantly. Rectifiers on F3's are notorious for getting hot and burning out. Keep it on a large metal surface to dissipate the heat.

 

What happens if the PAIR valve stays open? The pink wire? Is it in the wiring harness and would have went to the PAIR valve? Not seeing that anywhere.

 

the pink wire was going to the factory gauge if i remember right.

 

Ok but there is no factory gauge anymore, so what do I do with the pink wire????Ground it? Leave it hooked up and leave it alone? The cluster is gone, but the plugs for it are still int he bike.

 

You are supposed to ground the pink wire.

 

Just ground it to the frame. It is commonly done when changing the gauges or deleting them. Follow the wire harness from the speedo and is should be there. Also, make sure the coils are wired correctly, it is easy to mix them up.

 

Have you checked your gas cap so the vent isn't blocked?I had a similar thing happen to a bike I had.It would run for a while and as soon as it had to much vaccum in the tank the fuel flow stopped.After sitting for an hr or 2 there was no vaccum in the tank and it would run for a while.
It's easy to check just start the bike with the gas cap open and see if it helps.

 

All good ideas. Changed the rectifier and that seems to have helped. Getting good electrical flow now. Since taking out those Cali emmissions it just doesn't run the same, not necessarily bad, just not the same. Was also told I wouldn't get as good of gas mileage etc. I will try grounding the pink wire and see if that helps. Also was wondering about the coils? How do I ensure they are wired correctly??? Thanks for the inputs.

 

If you can get it to idle, then I doubt the coils are wired incorrectly. Try to adjust the throttle cable and throttle stop screw until it idles correctly and make sure all of the vacuum lines are run correctly.

 

Guys,

Haven't grounded the pink wire yet. Here's whats going on. The bike runs but then wants to quit somthing fierce. Get into 3rd or 4th and it really trys to die. What exactly does grounding the pink wire do??? Just isn't running right....Getting frustrated.....