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The economy sucks so bad that I'm gonna start building frames again....

7K views 59 replies 26 participants last post by  mikey  
#1 ·
I stopped building a lot of shit at home when I came back to MN from CO.

It's been super busy with my kid and all that shit, but times are tough, and frankly, I miss having money that I used to.

So, I'm gonna start building frames again.

They will be built to spec, TIG'd, parts will be machined or water cut (no plasma/oxy here), and everything will come with an MSO.

It will take a bit to get going, but I want to build some fighter frames too. For now I've got what I need to get back into chop/bob stuff again. Frankly, it's cheaper, faster, and less hassle... though I would love to get into other styles of bikes this time.

Anyhow, here's a pic of the jig I started last week. Need to get some tube for legs, and build the neck/axle plate towers and we're rollin.

Also, I'm gonna be building an engine carrier so I can bolt a sportbike motor up here and build perimiter parts to see what I think.

Anyhow, here's the first day of work on the jig:

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I'll be rockin soon here. I charge under $1G for a fully custom built frame. Includes standard axle plates and neck gussets. Above that is alacarte. (Custom plates, goosenecks, etc.)

I never got into building fuckloads of frames cause I liked doing it as a hobby, but it was a good time. Who knows? Maybe I'll quit my job, make 3 frames a month, and spend a shitload of time with my kid? lol

Anyhow, if anyone was interested in building a jig I'll keep updates coming.

FWIW: The beam is a 5" 24# or so. I didn't weigh it. It was two pieces of scrap outside at work. I took out 2 3/8" slots at 3" between centerlines 18 inches long on each end. Then I scribed off a center on the two pieces. Lined them up with a long piece of angle iron, tacked it, clamped some 4x1" bar along them and welded the seams. Perfectly straight.

When building frames centeline along the length of the frame is the most critical measurement... so I always cut a permanent CL down the length with a thin cutoff and a grinder. Gives you a constant reference.
 
#2 ·
sounds good man.

hope you get lots of business and cant wait to see frames come together.

on a side note... what happened to the freddy cougar claws? :D
 
#8 ·
I could probably send you some buisness if you can do hardails (don't see that being a prob) on existing front halves, maybe with some rake work, for an decent price. I just don't have the time to do it, and I don't have a jig, so I have to do it the hard way.

For example, say I send someone to you with a random (steel) perimeter frame UJM (universal japanese motorcycle, for ya'll youngun's, lol) that wants a hardtail rear on an existing frame (meaning not having to deal with motor mounts, etc), with a 3" stretch, and wants the neck raked to 38 degrees, with a 2.5" ground clearance (my chop's specs, in case you're wondering)..... what would you charge for something like that. I only ask b/c I didn't build my current frame, and I know what that the guy that did charged me, so I'm trying to get a comparison of charges.
 
#9 ·
So you'd want a hardtail conversion welded up, 2.5" baseline clearance (under the mill... which means I'd need to know what wheels you want to run. ;)), and a 38* rake?

I could rake a neck and do all that work, for probably 350-400 including material as long as someone sent me the frame without the swingarm or subframe. I know most people charge half that for just the hardtail conversion alone without any labor at all.

I know I could charge MUCH more for totally custom work, but here's the thing. I'm not looking to make a million here. I'd just like to get steadily back into doing something I love for the money I need to get by. Nothing more. :D

Also, would you have any opposition to having a logo embossed on the inside of the rear plates? I would do this on my work.

I would just build a jig for hardtail conversions that I could build the tail in, then just drop the perimeter into my frame jig and go from there. :thumbup:
 
#10 ·
nail...head... yeah... I forgot to mention rim/tire sizes. Might want to take into account front end angle/length with regards to ride hieght. Most of my customers, when talking about "ride hieght" look at is as "from the bottom of the frame". some motors drop below the frame, some don't.

As far as a generic hardtail to use on a perimeter frame, I can tell you, that's nto gonna work. If you were doing strictly one model of frame that's one thing, but I get alot of different models, and I'm sure I don't have to explain why that won't work.

In any case, I paid $500 for my framework, not including the stupidly thick axle plates I run, shipped, so you're not far off at all.

I've seen your builds, and the quality was always there, so tell you what, I'll pass your info along to those random people asking me to do that kind of work. Off the top of my head I have a guy wanting a (non-rubber mount) sporty hardtailed, and possibly an old FLH shovelhead. I know you do alot of metric stuff, but metal is metal, it all goes together regardless if it's MM or SAE.

And no, I have no problem with you embossing a logo. It's your work, you should be entitled to sign it.
 
#21 ·
Nice! Can't wait to see your finished jig! I've seen your work on here, and you will have no problems moving your frames! I look forward to seeing your progress!
I've been considering doing something like this myself for a while. I've been a welder and millwright for years, (for someone else), and now due the shitty economy, I am forced to look at some other options as well. I'm thinking mobile repair welding myself. Cam
 
#26 ·
Here's the skinny on cost. ~$1,000.00 for any basic chassis. Any rake, stretch, etc. When you start wanting custom designed axle plates, gussets, SUPER HUGE rear ends, etc. then we'll have to talk price.

Unlike other co's (detroit, etc.) I would build them to order, so custom is what you would always get.

I would blast them and shoot them with a primer before shipping unless the buyer stated he/she didn't want that.

Shipping would be through UPS, and wouldn't run too much.

Would be in 1", 1 1/8", 1 1/4" main tube sizes, with single or double drops, and backbones up to 1 1/2".

Necks could be most anything. I can get necks for any stem mostly.

Aside from that, the only issue would be lead time. I'm not gonna compromise quality to be a one man show pounding frames out faster than is safe. My name would be on these things, so I want good SAFE frames. If you'd be willing to wait for something worth the money (and cheaper than anywhere anyhow) that is custom built to high standards, that's what I'm gonna offer.

This is still a few months out anyhow as I need to finish the jig, get another tube notcher, order my dies, get a rack built for steel in the garage, etc. But when the time comes I'll be letting everyone know. And FWIW: The first few that I do will go SUPER CHEAP (As in materials plus shipping plus a few hundred for labor) to friends in return for spreading my site cards. :thumbup:

(I'm also working on a swingarm jig, fork jig for springer forks, etc.)
 
#28 ·
I am an active poster on 2 or 3 motorcycle forums. From what i read (i have no idea personally) the XS frame is easy as hell to make.

I'll gladly spread the word on what you are doing. :shocker:

I was pretty happy on wild turkey when i made the ass comment but.. the more i get into this 2nd bottle tonight.. the better of an idea its becoming again. :LolLolLolLol:
 
#29 ·
MPLS, that is a killer idea. If I had a spare engine floating around (which I might soon)a fighter frame like a Duc frame would be sweet!
 
#36 ·
I'll answer all your questions soon. My house has been invaded by my two year old who runs around yelling "BIKKEEEEEE SHOWWWW! CARRRR SHOWWW!! VROOOOOOOOOOOOOOM!!!!".

The jig will be close to finished this week. Will update with new pics tomorrow.
 
#39 ·
Update quickly. Added legs and wheels.

Legs are 20" long. Feet (if you call them that) are 24" and the wheels are 3" castors made of rubber. The one end is a set of swivels with locks.

Anyhow, here's the pics.

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Critical thing is that everything is as square as possible at the frame side of the jig as a out of whack jig is worse than no jig at all... The legs should be squared too, but I'm running adjusters in addition. I got it square, but adjusters will help level.