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Virago 1100

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27K views 81 replies 21 participants last post by  CK 187  
#1 ·
After being without a bike for about 2 years, I decided to pick up an XV1100. I always had I4's, with the exception of my XS850 triple, but have wanted to give a twin a try. I wanted something with more grunt, where the power was usable, legally, on the street. The Virago 1100 has that, and I think they look really cool with a little work. I don't plan to go crazy with it, as I don't have the resources to do what Knifemaker and others have done to their XV's, but some modernizing and cleaning up I do plan to do.
I started with a '98 that was fitted with saddle bags / highway bars / back rest / skeleton hand mirrors / purple ghost flamed tank / and purple neon led glow kit from the previous owner.

It is actually a very clean bike, but I had to get rid of all that crap from it.

I've stripped a bunch of crap off, aside from the highway bars, but they'll be soon to follow. I'm just using the highway bars for jack stand points at the moment, since there is no bottom frame to lift the bike from. I've synced carbs, changed fluids, checked / adjusted valved, and fixed a small oil leak from the oil level sending unit. I've also picked up a few parts. Some have arrived and some I'm still waiting on.
I picked up a set of '91 / '92 GSXR 100 USD's off craigslist that needed fork seals as well as the upper triple clamp, axle, and axle pinch bolts. It wasn't until I got the upper triple in that I realized the lower triple that came with the forks were for '93-'98 forks. While the 91/92 USD's share the same lower fork tube size of 56mm, they don't share the same fork to steering stem offset. So, I had to buy a lower triple for the '91/92 forks. There is a lot of conflicting info out there on dimensions of the GSXR 1100 fork sizes too. For those seeking it in the future, GSXR 1100 USD's are not the same. Mainly, they both share 56mm lower fork tube diameters, but the upper fork tubes on the 91/92 are 52mm, whereas the 93-98 are 50mm. And, as I stated, the fork to steering stem offsets are different between the 91/92 and 93-98. Anyhow, I chose these forks due to their length being longer than just about every other USD fork out there, at a little over 30" long. The Virago doesn't have much ground clearance as it is, so coupled with shorter forks and a smaller diameter wheel over stock, I needed as long of a fork as I could get.
After getting all the associated fork parts, I changed the fork seals. I've never done forks seals before due to the supposed complexity of the job, but it really wasn't much of a deal. I watched a youtube vid and made a fork spring compressor out of some galvanized chain link fence post and a couple nuts and bolts, which worked perfectly. The cylinder portion is way longer than it needs to be, but it was just a section of pipe that I had and didn't feel the need to cut it.

I pulled the stock front end and mocked up the GSXR forks. The gsxr forks' steering stem was just under an inch too short. Fortunately, the steering stems from both bikes shared upper and lower steering stem bearings, so the stem swap was a direct fit. I just had to cut the XV stem out of the lower triple, then had the machine shop do the press work. I also had to ream out the upper triple for the steering stem to fit in.
For the front wheel, I wanted something that would closely match the Virago rear wheel. As I'm not doing any crazy chain conversion, the factory rear wheel is staying. It us a 5 spoke, so the gsxr1100 3 spoke front wheel wouldn't work. The closest affordable wheel would be newer r1/r6 5 spoke wheels. While their spokes have a slight twist, the are close enough for my liking, as they would mostly be concealed by brake rotors anyways. The issue with them is that they fit a 22mm axle and the gsxr1100 is 20mm. There are no conversion bearings to be had, but I was able to source some 20mm id x 22mm od flanged bushings.
Continued....
 
#36 ·
Also how do these things run? The only twin i've ridden was 600 honda shadow and idk if it was the riding position or what but i felt like i couldnt get out of my own way if i tried


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#38 ·
I'd never ridden a twin prior to test driving one before buying mine. The one I rode was an 1100 that had the single carb conversion done using a harley carb. It had loads of torque..really sold me on the xv1100. Mine has both factory carbs but still is all about the torque. After rejetting with the exhaust and filter change..there is a definite sotp increase. I dont feel there is any issue with power. It all depends on what ur looking for though. It's not gonna wind out to 15k like a sport bike but it has very usable power. It's there without having to change gears. Makes it a fun around town kinda bike.
 
#42 ·
Close. I got mine thru amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KKDQXI/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3" rise and 3" pull back. I didn't want much pull back but didn't want drag bar straight either.

The gauge seems nice so far. It hasn't stood much of a test yet though. There r quite a few vids on youtube for it. The problem is trying to find them as this thing has no known manufacturer or model name. These 2 were the most informative for me:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CFLCbqfrgE8
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vauh9jQRuVs
 
#43 ·
Update.

I was getting some intermittent backfiring through the intake when hot at the first blip of the throttle sometimes. I found both carbs were leaking slightly through the butterfly shaft seals. I pulled the carbs and replaced them. While I had the carbs out, I wanted to try out bigger jets to see how it ran 2 sizes up. So I did 145 pilots and a 130 / 127.5 in the front / rear cylinders. I've only ridden it for about 5 minutes since the changes, but it seems to run smoothly and strong so far.

I also finished up the paint. I got the wheels, front fender bracket, speedo bracket, upper triple, and exhaust bracket painted.





I'm pretty happy with how the wheels turned out. I cleared them with spraymax 2k clear so hopefully the paint will be durable.

I've got a few minor things left to do, but that's about it. It is more or less finished.









 
#44 ·
Good looking bike. I almost did a newer style bike with dual rear shocks instead of the '82 I picked up. The Benelli tank just looks so at home on these bikes.
 
#46 ·
Lol Benelli tank looks good on pretty much any bike, that's why they are so popular!


Bike is looking pretty clean!
 
#47 ·
I also didnt wat to deal with those Hitachi carbs on the early models.
Neither did I, so the first thing I did with my bike was threw those in the recycling bin and replace them with a Mikuni. :rock:
 
#48 ·
I was never really happy with the lines of the bike with the lower seat and big rear fender. The low seat position was relaxed and comfortable, but it wasn't that appealing to my eyes. So, I'm redoing the seat / tail / shocks. I'm gonna take the grinder to it, maybe this weekend.

A simple Paint photo of my plan..minus the gray seat color



I've already bent up some tube yesterday for the seat rails using the sand fill method with heat from a charcoal pit haha.





I'm raising the back of the tank by about 1.5 inches to give the line a bit of rake. I've got some shocks coming in. The factory ones are too short for the new subframe geometry...plus not a fan of the chrome. I picked up the RFY's....not exactly a performance shock, but neither is the bike that I get to ride only a couple times a month...and a measly $75 shipped. They're rebuildable, so I'll see how they ride as is before I decide if they need to be tweaked.




Right off the bat I'm gonna need to change out the bushings in the eyes, as they are 12mm and I need 14..maybe I'll get lucky and be able to use the bushings from my stockers.

I'm also removing the factory foot pegs and doing rearsets..I'm going to leave the foot pegs mount bars for engine protection though.

And the front tire size will go up to closer match the rear, which has been an eyesore for me.
More later.
 
#55 ·
Finished cutting the old down tubes out and welded in some caps to cover the holes from the old down tubes. Cut some of my wiring harness with the grinder in the process. Cut, fit and welded the new down tubes. Made upper some upper shock mount plates and welded them in. Drilled and installed the upper shock mount studs..still got to reinforce them and weld them in.







 
#56 ·
Any recommendations on where to put the horizontal cross tubes on the subframe? I've not 100% decided yet, but I will probably put a hoop on the back, so I was thinking about putting on section of tube across the area just in front of the down tubes like here



Will this be good enough or should I add another one to the down tubes like maybe halfway up the tubes like here also?

 
#58 ·
Thanks capt. I contemplated a similar design during the initial build, but I didn't want to get into cutting and recoating the frame, so I took the easy way out and left it stock. But I never really liked the original lines and I got the bug to do some more work on it...so on to messing up my garage again haha. Like the avatar btw lol.
 
#59 ·
Where you have them is good, though I would do the top one right at the junction of the two tubes. For extra stiffness, a diagonal brace would be good, so the three tubes you put in form a Z. Trainges = stiff. Squares = not stiff. The tubes don't have to be super thick, 3/4" 14 g would be fine. Triangulation matters more than big tubes.
 
#63 ·
Got the "hoop" welded up.

I shortened the subframe rails a bit



I got the bends cut out of the old subframe and cut to the approximate size. Unfortunately the individual bends didn't have tight enough of a radius to be able to make a continuously smooth radius, but its what i have to work with..it'll be close enough for me..at least it'll be symmetrical to the naked eye.



After timing the bends some to meet flush, I tacked them into place...I've also got each joint lugged with 3/4" round bar



I didn't get a picture after finish welding..just went straight into flap discing and filing the welds smooth...but ended up with this









Overall I'm happy with how it turned out. Now to wait for my rearsets so I can figure out where to mount them and cut out the old pegs.
 
#64 ·
Damn man, nice work on that hoop considering it's just some scrap from the old frame...

Looks great!
 
#67 ·
Thanks Espen, appreciate the kind words!

So, I got the correct tire in and mounted it over the weekend...what a pita! I "planned" to not scratch up the recently painted wheel, but after the tire spoon scratching the rim upon the first bit of leverage on it..even though I used some relatively thick plastic as a rim protector..I just said screw it and went about it without using the plastic pieces. It's now scratched all over, so I'll be repainting it again. Oh well, the tire is on now, and I think it looks so much better without the miniwheel up front.



I'm gonna have to extend my front fender mount now to accommodate the bigger tire..I'll probably do that when I'm ready to repaint the front wheel.
I also got the tank height set and rewelded the front and rear mounts (not shown in pic).