[shinyribs]

I checked it the side panel video. How did your attach the nubs that pop in to the grommet? That's an awesome setup.

 

[sugarkryptonite]

I checked it the side panel video. How did your attach the nubs that pop in to the grommet? That's an awesome setup.

Hey Shiny

That was actually welded to the side panel we made. We just copied it from my original side panels that were made of plastic. The mount on the tank with the grommet is factory, made for the original side panels. We just decided to use that mount because options were limited at that end of the cover. Plus it works out nicely.

I'll get more shots of them for you when the side covers are finished!

 

[sugarkryptonite]

Got the wheels back on.

Only thing is the spacing on the rear wheel is off, not sure what I did wrong, need to find out on the V4Musclebike forum before I can fix that.

 

[shinyribs]

I didn't see any welds on the sidepanel nubs. I just never saw anybody recreate the factory nubs like that before. Had to rep ya for that. :thumbsup:

 

[DarkMonohue]

Got the wheels back on.

Looking good. Really good.

Have you checked front wheel travel to make sure it's not going to stuff itself into the engine on full compression? There's a lot of motor hanging out the front of these things.

 

[sugarkryptonite]

Looking good. Really good.

Have you checked front wheel travel to make sure it's not going to stuff itself into the engine on full compression? There's a lot of motor hanging out the front of these things.

Yeah I checked it when I first started getting ready to put them on. That's one of the reasons why I made the fork extenders.

These forks I have are really stiff, though, way more than stock, so I'm sure it'll be fine. They're almost the same length as the originals I took out, now.

 

[shinyribs]

You may be surprised how soft those stiff forks can get. I stuck a pair of GSXR USD's on a '76 CB750 once. The tire got all up in the headers under semi-hard braking. Only thing that saved it was the tire could go between the header tubes of the wheel was pointed straight. Really fucky feeling situation when the tire was turned a little bit, though.

You could always pop the springs out and let the forks collapse to check, for peace of mind.

 

[sugarkryptonite]

You may be surprised how soft those stiff forks can get. I stuck a pair of GSXR USD's on a '76 CB750 once. The tire got all up in the headers under semi-hard braking. Only thing that saved it was the tire could go between the header tubes of the wheel was pointed straight. Really fucky feeling situation when the tire was turned a little bit, though.

You could always pop the springs out and let the forks collapse to check, for peace of mind.

True, but at the same time, those CB's have a much steeper steering angle than my bike does...they're almost the same as a crotch rocket. I've checked it a bunch of times pushing it around then braking hard and the wheel still has a good amount of clearance between it and the valve cover. Guess I'll find out for sure when I ride it. I think I'd rather have the wheel touch the valve cover and find out then (or not) instead of ripping the forks apart again now and taking the springs out...F THAT! They're a pain in the ass to work on.

If these touch, I'd be reallyyyy surprised, because like I said, they're the same length as my original ones, which were WAY softer, and had much more travel than these do.
___________________________________________

Got the wheels on better today and adjusted the head bearings more...seems like they seated more when I tightened them the first time so I had to tighten them again...seems fine now.

My dad also made up a piece that fits on the end of my rear axle so that I can use the paddock stands that I bought.

Also threw on the front brakes and bolted on the clutch/brake levers. Might change out the clutch side to match the brakes, not sure yet.

 

[hrdy]

wow paddock stand on a shaft drive :thumbsup:


saw this on FB last year

iirc the owner said it had a NTV700 Deauville rear wheel

 

[sugarkryptonite]

wow paddock stand on a shaft drive :thumbsup:


saw this on FB last year

iirc the owner said it had a NTV700 Deauville rear wheel

Nice! From what I see from pics online the final drive of the NTV700 looks really similar as well.

Anyone got any recommendations when it comes to putting on radial vs bias ply tires? I'd never even thought about the difference until someone mentioned it recently...I have a feeling the bike still weighs over 500lbs, but I've also made it a single seater...not sure if I should try to go for radials all around or just stick with new bias plys...

 

[sugarkryptonite]

Just worked on some wiring diagrams tonight. Threw on the seat, tank, and one of the junk side covers just to see what it would look like...pretty happy with it.

 

[makenzie71]

I think it looks better without the side panel.

 

[sugarkryptonite]

I think it looks better without the side panel.

Agreed right now, but wait until there's wires and fuel lines everywhere behind there

 

[excellrec]

Looks great! Good to see you've taken this one to the next level. I'll have to get me one of these..

 

[scottyp]

the longer this build goes, the more I like it.

 

[HickLife]

Agreed right now, but wait until there's wires and fuel lines everywhere behind there

Then make them tidy ;-) i love the look of thing its making me want to get one


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[shinyribs]

The side panels should look awesome, but I agree, something is off. Maybe it's because the lower point doesn't match any other lines on the bike. Wonder how it'd look to come up a couple or few inches and
cut the bottom edge off flat.

 

[DarkMonohue]

I think I'd rather have the wheel touch the valve cover and find out then (or not) instead of ripping the forks apart again now and taking the springs out...F THAT! They're a pain in the ass to work on.

I totally understand not wanting to rip the forks apart if you don't have to, but hitting the brakes at walking speed is not really a thorough test. How about chocking the front wheel, then using ratchet straps on the handlebars to fully compress the fork? That way you'd know for sure, rather than finding out at a less convenient time, like a pothole in the middle of a wet corner...

Man. I feel like I am feeding you a bunch of negativity, and that's not my intention. Please try to read my comments as analytical engineering concern rather than outright criticism. You have a cool build going here and I am really excited to see it develop. You have a lot of good ideas here, and hopefully (the good lord willing and the creek don't rise) some of them will eventually get rolled into my own Sabre.

 

[sugarkryptonite]

I totally understand not wanting to rip the forks apart if you don't have to, but hitting the brakes at walking speed is not really a thorough test. How about chocking the front wheel, then using ratchet straps on the handlebars to fully compress the fork? That way you'd know for sure, rather than finding out at a less convenient time, like a pothole in the middle of a wet corner...

Man. I feel like I am feeding you a bunch of negativity, and that's not my intention. Please try to read my comments as analytical engineering concern rather than outright criticism. You have a cool build going here and I am really excited to see it develop. You have a lot of good ideas here, and hopefully (the good lord willing and the creek don't rise) some of them will eventually get rolled into my own Sabre.

Lol no problem bud.

That's a good idea to compress the forks and I'll probably try it later. When moving just by pushing then slamming on the brakes, the forks get pretty damn close to fully compressed (they only have a total travel of like 3 inches max, maybe less), and there's still space between the motor and the wheel. I have a feeling that compressing with the straps won't be able to compress them much more than I can without them, but I'll still test it. I'm confident it'll be fine, and if I test it with the straps and it touches I'll raise the triples in the front since I still have an inch of height to play with. I set it low at the start not knowing how it was gonna be with everything back on.

 

[F'dup]

Just measure the chrome part of the stantion tubes that's showing and then loosen the triple clamps and lower the forks in the clamps that measurement and check clearances...