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Discussion starter · #21 ·
not much done on this today, but I was quite pleased when packing all the stuff I removed from the engine / frame , to see how little by way of electrical gubbins there is , should be easy enough to hide away . I'll need a power commander, second hand ones for K4 1000's seem a little thin on the ground , K4 750's on the other hand are plentiful, so we're going to call dynojet and see if they are compatible

I did remove the butterfly from inside the link pipe, doing away with a bundle wires, two control cables and black box
 
[QUOTE yantosh;2790210]I dug through the box of things that might come in useful today, found a thing to help make an adjustable support, just needed to turn an insert for it. Figured it better than a block of wood/QUOTE]


That's were i go wrong ,all I use is wood fer this stuff ;)
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
a pair of sleeves turned up for the swingarm spindle



letting the frame and engine be properly supported by the jig



the next fun bit will be to get it sitting at the correct angle
 
Dynojet will likely tell you no, but if you get a spare harness to cut ECU connectors off, then repin the PC and load a 1K map you should be gtg, call DJ back and tell em :smiliebiker:
 
Dynojet will likely tell you no, but if you get a spare harness to cut ECU connectors off, then repin the PC and load a 1K map you should be gtg, call DJ back and tell em :smiliebiker:

How do ya know all this stuff Seb? Darn smart man I geuss !LOL I realized that soon as I met ya mate ;)
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
time to get the frame to the proper angle, much easier now I have the swingarm spindle to pivot on



meant to be 23.5, but this'll do, it's more for visual than anything as all the other points will be jigged in relation to it

my adjustable support comes in handy again



Decided to shorten the base of the jig, made it long enough for all eventualities, but to be honest I need it to be more movable, there's no way I could get to both sides of it to make the frame



that's it about 3ft shorter ( chopped a little off the other end too )





this plate will tie onto the base and have fittings welded to it to secure the engine



going to make a plate up to bolt onto the exhaust studs



a second plate sits on the other side



it'll have a post like so



that'll connect to these



one in the top shock mount



the other in the linkage mount



unfortunately the lower one is a few thou too wide , need to get me to a lathe , resisted the temptation to buff it down, frame will only be as good as the jig
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
I am leaning towards leaving the bearing pockets in the neck undersize, then final boring them once the frame is 100% welded, that way I can be certain the steering stem and swingarm pivot are bob on
 
Thatsa good idea Yan.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
I wasn't happy that the cross piece of the jig was spot on, so I loosened everything off and took the swingarm pivot pin back out. While I was putting it all back together I remembered I had a steel tube with inserts in the ends with 20mm holes, used it while putting new pivot points in the Z650 frame, so that's in the frame now ready for attaching to the jig



It has a mashup of spacers along with it, but I'll make proper ones

the lower insert was trimmed to length



and the front mounting plates started



If all goes to plan the old frame will be off tomorrow
 
That's were i go wrong ,all I use is wood fer this stuff
Image
I've used wood jigs for all my stuff too. It can be fine in terms of accuracy, but it's only really suited for single use jigs where you don't need access to all sides of a joint. Would get knocked around to much in the process of building a whole frame, and get in the way of welding. And that's ignoring the damage it would take from fire....
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
the old frame is off the jig, today has been a battle between me trying to get things done and my inner chimp wanting to smash the whole fuckin place ...... I fed him beer and hoped for the best .

I've been checking the specs of the new GSR compared to the GSXR, the GSXR has a rake angle of 23.5' where as the high barred GSR is 25' , the last thing I want is to go to all this grief and end up with a bike that's super twitchy and tries to launch me into the scenery at every opportunity (i'm old enough to realise I'm no super hero)....

soo I'll change the neck angle a bit , make adjustable offset yokes (letting me set the trail ) , an adjustable swingarm pivot and ride height adjuster for the shock... hopefully that'll be enough to set it up

:ttiwwop:

I'm having a cup of tea..... pics soon
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
looks like I'm done welding for the next week or so



but I was able to get to this point







I'll need to collect the throttle bodies and airbox, should have done that yesterday when I was at the shop

but since I'd got this far I had a mess about with flexi pipe



 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
31st Dec.. 23:00hr...what to do ?

design frame components

that's the inserts for the adjustable swingarm pivot point drawn up , they are of course subject to change, but the basics are there, I can get 5mm up or down with these

 
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